Djerba thumbnail 1
Djerba thumbnail 2
+5
images
Not on display

Djerba

Dress
1971 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The relationship between artists and fashion designers is often very close. In the late 1960s and early 1970s the Scottish-Italian artist Eduardo Paolozzi created a series of prints called 'Moonstrips Empire News'. These captured the attention of Jules-François Crahay, head designer for Lanvin from 1964 to 1984. He commissioned special fabrics based on Paolozzi's designs which were exclusive only to Lanvin's Spring-Summer collection of 1971. This two-piece dress, called 'Djerba', was presented as an informal evening dress to wear in the countryside. This was typical of high end design, where outfits were presented for wearing in very specific circumstances. However, the wearer had the option of wearing the blouse and skirt separately.

Paolozzi requested that Lanvin donate an example of this ensemble to the V&A in lieu of his royalties. Another Lanvin/Paolozzi ensemble, 'Malaga', was also donated (see T.303, A to D-1971). The 'Moonstrips Empire News' prints also inspired a series of Wedgwood ceramics, samples of which are held by the Ceramics Collection, (see CIRC.512-1972)

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 3 parts.

  • Evening Blouse
  • Evening Skirt
  • Belt
TitleDjerba (assigned by artist)
Materials and techniques
Printed wool etamine, silk, plastic and chrome, lined with white silk crepoline
Brief description
Evening ensemble 'Djerba' comprising of a printed wool etamine blouse and full-length pleated skirt, with plastic and chrome girdle belt, designed by Jules-François Crahay and Eduardo Paolozzi for Lanvin, Paris, 1971
Physical description
Evening ensemble comprising of a lightweight printed wool etamine (a soft loosely woven fabric) blouse with bishop sleeves and a co-ordinating full-length pleated skirt with a geometric design in yellow, blue, orange, pink, grey, and green on a cream ground. With a girdle belt of alternating rows of three large green plastic beads and cylindrical chrome beads with a blue-green silk tassel and hook fastening.

The blouse is loose cut and hip length with an elasticated length. It has a narrow band collar and long sleeves with the fullness conjoined by stitch pleats at the upper arm and a deep button cuff. The centre front fly with a white metal zip 3/4 length opening. Lined with white silk crepoline.

The skirt has the fullness confined by stitch pleats from the waist to the hip falling there in unpressed pleats to the ankle. It fastens at the centre back with a white metal zip and hooks and eyes. Unlined.
Dimensions
  • Waist, skirt circumference: 63cm
  • Width: 380mm (Note: Blouse, shoulder-shoulder)
  • Circumference: 890mm (Note: Blouse, bust (flat))
  • Length: 1114mm (Note: Skirt)
  • Circumference: 800mm (Note: Skirt, hips (flat))
  • Circumference: 768mm (Note: Belt, minimum circumference)
Production typeHaute couture
Credit line
Given by Lanvin
Object history
This ensemble, designed to be worn as an informal evening dress in the countryside, was featured in the Lanvin Spring-Summer collection of 1971, where it was described as: '"DJERBA": Robe de campagne en etamine de laine d'apres PAOLOZZI (Ducharne)' (Translation: '"Djerba": Dress for the country in wool etamine after Paolozzi (fabric by Ducharne)') The outfit is believed to have been shown in the French publication "L'Officiel" in Spring 1971 and possibly also "L'Art et la Mode".

The fabric was specially commissioned by Crahay after he had seen Paolozzi's print series "Moonstrips Empire news". It was exclusive to Lanvin, and was printed and made by the Italian company Bombyx and the French company Ducharne. Rather than accept royalties from the sales, Paolozzi requested that Lanvin donate the ensemble to the V&A in lieu of his royalties. Another Lanvin/Paolozzi ensemble was also donated (see T.303, A to D-1971)

Some Wedgwood ceramics were also produced bearing a design inspired by the same print series. They were given to the Department of Circulation at the same time as these outfits, and are now held by the Ceramics Collection, see CIRC.512, A to E-1972
Production
Spring-Summer 1971
Summary
The relationship between artists and fashion designers is often very close. In the late 1960s and early 1970s the Scottish-Italian artist Eduardo Paolozzi created a series of prints called 'Moonstrips Empire News'. These captured the attention of Jules-François Crahay, head designer for Lanvin from 1964 to 1984. He commissioned special fabrics based on Paolozzi's designs which were exclusive only to Lanvin's Spring-Summer collection of 1971. This two-piece dress, called 'Djerba', was presented as an informal evening dress to wear in the countryside. This was typical of high end design, where outfits were presented for wearing in very specific circumstances. However, the wearer had the option of wearing the blouse and skirt separately.

Paolozzi requested that Lanvin donate an example of this ensemble to the V&A in lieu of his royalties. Another Lanvin/Paolozzi ensemble, 'Malaga', was also donated (see T.303, A to D-1971). The 'Moonstrips Empire News' prints also inspired a series of Wedgwood ceramics, samples of which are held by the Ceramics Collection, (see CIRC.512-1972)
Bibliographic reference
A sketch of this ensemble, with sample swatch attached, is in the collection of the Fashion and Lace Museum, Brussels [Le Musée Mode & Dentelle de Bruxelles], object number AG2021.220.06
Collection
Accession number
T.304 to B-1971

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdJune 23, 2009
Record URL
Download as: JSON