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Cover

ca. 4th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This is an exceptional survival from the late Roman period in Egypt as the large cloth is complete. The linen cloth is woven with loops all-over and so also the purple woollen decorations, rather like a towel today. The border of four ornamental right-angles is characteristic of a number of large cloths from this period and would be suitable for floor-coverings, curtains and hangings. But the ornamentation was also used on cloaks and altar-coverings. The resemblance to the Greek letter gamma has given these ornamented cloths the name of gammadion, gammadiae or gammidae.

The ornament in this cloth is designed so as not exactly to balance. There are two varieties of roundels in the corners, the opposite ones being alike, and the interlaced ornament in the middle of one side is larger than the other three and different in design. If the cloth was worn over the shoulders this unsymmetrical design would make more sense than spreading it out flat.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Looped weaving in wool and linen
Brief description
Large cloth of looped linen and purple wool decorations, c. 4th century AD, Egypt
Physical description
Undyed linen cloth faced with long loops, with woven ornament in smaller purple woollen loops. The border consists of four deep angular bands of simple geometric ornament; between these, in the middle of each side, is a small panel connected with the corner-bands by narrow stripes, thus forming a continuous border. The panels consist of interlaced ornament forming squares: three are of the same design; the fourth is larger and different. Within each angle is an ornamental circle; there are two designs, those in opposite corners being the same. A large circle of similar character occupies the middle of the cloth. At each end are two parallel stripes of running-wave pattern. The bands of bare-warp threads at top and bottom show where rods have been inserted in the warps to facilitate the weaving.
Dimensions
  • Weight: 12kg (Note: Weight of object, roller and storage pole.)
  • Top width: 1855mm
  • Bottom width: 1904mm
  • Proper right length: 2730mm
  • Proper left length: 2700mm
Dimensions taken from Kendrick and converted to metric
Object history
Purchased from the Parisian dealer Monsieur A P Andrea.
Production
Probably from Akhmim
Summary
This is an exceptional survival from the late Roman period in Egypt as the large cloth is complete. The linen cloth is woven with loops all-over and so also the purple woollen decorations, rather like a towel today. The border of four ornamental right-angles is characteristic of a number of large cloths from this period and would be suitable for floor-coverings, curtains and hangings. But the ornamentation was also used on cloaks and altar-coverings. The resemblance to the Greek letter gamma has given these ornamented cloths the name of gammadion, gammadiae or gammidae.

The ornament in this cloth is designed so as not exactly to balance. There are two varieties of roundels in the corners, the opposite ones being alike, and the interlaced ornament in the middle of one side is larger than the other three and different in design. If the cloth was worn over the shoulders this unsymmetrical design would make more sense than spreading it out flat.
Bibliographic reference
Kendrick, A F. Catalogue of textiles from burying-grounds in Egypt. Vol. I. Graeco-Roman period (London: HMSO, V&A, 1920), cat. 6; ill. frontispiece
Collection
Accession number
438-1889

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Record createdJune 15, 2009
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