Sleeveless evening dress of embroidered silk satin with metal threads, possibly designed by Natalia Goncharova, probably for Marie Cuttoli, possibly retailed by House of Myrbor, Paris, 1925-1926

Sleeveless evening dress of embroidered black silk satin with metal threads. Chemise dress with a low square neckline. Embroidered solidly in silver and gold threads in abstract designs from shoulder to hem and across the bottom from hip level to hem. The black ground forms part of the abstract embroidery pattern. Straight cut. Lined to the hips with black chiffon.

This dress was worn by Miss Emilie Grigsby (1876-1964) who was a wealthy independent American who came to England from New York. She established a salon which was frequented by writers and the military. She was considered to be one of the great international beauties, with extremely pale, almost transparent skin and golden hair. She was frequently the subject of articles in the New York Times during the early 20th century. Her clothes were purchased from couturiers in London, Paris, and New York, and demonstrated an elegantly avant-garde approach to style.

The embroidery motifs on this dress are similar to design elements in the patchwork appliqué motifs on the Myrbor/ Natalia Goncharova pieces also from Emilie Grigsby's wardrobe (see T.157-1967, T.158-1967 and CIRC.329-1968). At the time of acquisition it was thought that this dress might also be from Myrbor. Given the provenance, the dress could certainly be Myrbor, but this requires further research to ascertain.

This dress was probably made by the House of Myrbor in about 1925. It is a black silk satin chemise dress with a square neckline. Abstract shapes are embroidered in gold and silver on the fabric.

This dress might have been designed by Natalia Goncharova, a Russian artist who emigrated to Paris after the Bolshevik Revolution. Natalia Goncharova (1881-1962) had a long career with Sergei Diaghilev's Ballets Russes. She produced astonishing costumes that were inspired by her Russian background and her work as an avant-garde artist. Like many Russian refugees in Paris, she also designed dresses. These strongly reflected her work for Diaghilev. Between 1922 and 1926, she worked for the Maison Myrbor (House of Myrbor). This exclusive shop was owned by the French Marie Cuttoli. It sold fashion, rugs and curtains designed by the international avant-garde.

T.159-1967