Embroidered silk chiffon velvet evening dress and silk chemisette, probably designed by Callot Soeurs, France, 1922-1923

Cream silk chiffon velvet evening dress and silk chemisette. The dress has a straight cut and long-waisted bodice with a V-neckline front and back, and armholes extending almost to the waist. Front panel applied with gold lamé with gilt rectangular motifs down the edges, linked into a band by a silver border which extends over the shoulders and runs halfway down the back. The sides of the skirt are embroidered with silver and gold threads, and the waist of the skirt is gathered into a frill to emphasize the low waistline. It is worn over a matching chemisette in white silk with appliquéd gold lamé around the tops which would be exposed in the neckline and armholes.

This dress was worn by Miss Emilie Grigsby (1876-1964) who was a wealthy independent American who came to England from New York. She established a salon which was frequented by writers and the military. She was considered to be one of the great international beauties, with extremely pale, almost transparent skin and golden hair. She was frequently the subject of articles in the New York Times during the early 20th century. Her clothes were purchased from couturiers in London, Paris, and New York, and demonstrated an elegantly avant-garde approach to style.

At the time of acquisition Emilie Grigsby's friend, Miss Chisholm, stated that this dress and a few others were by Callot Soeurs, but this requires further research to confirm.

T.152&A-1967