Skull Cap thumbnail 1
Skull Cap thumbnail 2
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Skull Cap

ca. 1980 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Caps are the most elaborate part of traditional Uygur dress, and there are many regional variations in the decoration, which can also identify the sex, age and profession of the wearer. Colourful skull caps are worn by young women. This example has a square base, and comprises four triangular panels, each of which has an identical stylised rose pattern, embroidered in tent stitches with cotton threads in shades of red and blue against a contrasting green background. The canvas-work embroidery gives the textured surface the appearance of a flat-woven carpet. The cap can be folded when not in use.

The Uygurs call this type of cap tashkent doppa, tracing its origin back to a popular style worn in Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan. The term is now a generic one used to describe a geometric floral-pattern skull cap with tent-stitch embroidery.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Cotton embroidery with a velvet rim, lined with cotton and stiffened interlining
Brief description
Floral skull cap for a Uygur woman (tashkent doppa), silk velvet; embroidery in cotton, from Urumqi, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, China, ca. 1980.
Physical description
The cap is entirely covered with close tent stitch embroidery, predominantly in green, pink and red. It has a black velvet rim. It is lined with red cotton and has a stiffened interlining.
Dimensions
  • Height: 10cm
  • Width: 14cm
  • Depth: 14cm
Gallery label
One of three caps, this one cotton, covered with close straight-stitch embroidery.
Each ethnic group in Xinjiang has its own decorative conventions, so that caps from different districts are often distinctive. Uygur caps can also be classified according to the sec, age and profession of the wearer. For example, the almond caps are mostly worn by men, while the vivid and colourful caps with chequered embroidery are worn by women. As with costume, the inspiration for the designs comes mainly from nature combined with inherited traditional ornament and with motifs assimilated from other peoples, such as the Han Chinese.

All three caps were purchased in 1982 in Urumqi, capital of Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region.
Credit line
Given by Verity Wilson
Object history
Purchased in Urumqi, Xinjiang province, October 1980.

Registered File number 1981/172.
Historical context
Similar examples in the American Museum of Natural History, New York.
See A collection of the Xinjiang Uygur folk cap designs ed. Zhang Hengde et al. (Urumqi, 1983)
Summary
Caps are the most elaborate part of traditional Uygur dress, and there are many regional variations in the decoration, which can also identify the sex, age and profession of the wearer. Colourful skull caps are worn by young women. This example has a square base, and comprises four triangular panels, each of which has an identical stylised rose pattern, embroidered in tent stitches with cotton threads in shades of red and blue against a contrasting green background. The canvas-work embroidery gives the textured surface the appearance of a flat-woven carpet. The cap can be folded when not in use.

The Uygurs call this type of cap tashkent doppa, tracing its origin back to a popular style worn in Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan. The term is now a generic one used to describe a geometric floral-pattern skull cap with tent-stitch embroidery.
Collection
Accession number
FE.17-1983

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Record createdFebruary 12, 2000
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