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doppa

Skull Cap
ca. 1980 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The Uygurs wear embroidered skull caps (doppa) as part of their everyday clothing. Doppa serve an important function in Islamic religious practice, and also express their cultural identity. The crown of this cap is made from green velvet, embroidered with coloured sequins, gold threads and clear glass beads stitched in yellow threads, which give a golden hue to the beads. On the top of the cap are four large badam patterns, each in the shape of a teardrop with curved end. Badam is the Persian word for almond, a plant native to Central Asia and Xinjiang. This motif is regularly used in the decoration of local carpets and textiles. Uygur men generally wear the so-called ‘almond’ pattern caps (badam doppa) in white embroidery on black velvet.

Based on a vendor’s note attached to the inside, we know that this is a woman's hat. The donor bought the cap, together with two others (FE.15-1983, FE.17-1983), in the capital city Urumqi in 1980, shortly after China reopened its borders as part of the Open Door Policy.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Titledoppa (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Silk velvet; embroidery in glass beads, sequins and metallic threads, with satin lining and stiffened
Brief description
Skull cap for a Uygur woman (doppa), green silk velvet, embroidered with glass beads, sequins and metallic threads, lined with yellow satin, acquired from Urumqi, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, China, ca. 1980.
Physical description
Skull cap for a Uygur woma (doppa) of green velvet with black velvet trimed edge, embroidered with clear glass beads, coloured sequins, and couched gold thread. It is lined with yellow satin and has a stiffened interlining.
Dimensions
  • Height: 10cm
  • Width: 14cm
  • Depth: 14cm
Marks and inscriptions
(Handwritten note in red ink on paper stuck on the lining)
Translation
Woman's patterned hat costs 8.06 Chinese Yuan
Gallery label
One of three caps, this one velvet. The designs are formed in yellow beading, sequins and couched gold thread.
Each ethnic group in Xinjiang has its own decorative conventions, so that caps from different districts are often distinctive. Uygur caps can also be classified according to the sec, age and profession of the wearer. For example, the almond caps are mostly worn by men, while the vivid and colourful caps with chequered embroidery are worn by women. As with costume, the inspiration for the designs comes mainly from nature combined with inherited traditional ornament and with motifs assimilated from other peoples, such as the Han Chinese.

All three caps were purchased in 1982 in Urumqi, capital of Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region.
Credit line
Given by Verity Wilson
Object history
Purchased by the donor in Urumqi, Xinjiang province, October 1980.

Registered File number 1981/172.
Historical context
Similar examples in the American Museum of Natural History, New York.
See: A collection of the Xinjiang Uygur folk cap designs ed. Zhang Hengde et al. (Urumqi, 1983)
Summary
The Uygurs wear embroidered skull caps (doppa) as part of their everyday clothing. Doppa serve an important function in Islamic religious practice, and also express their cultural identity. The crown of this cap is made from green velvet, embroidered with coloured sequins, gold threads and clear glass beads stitched in yellow threads, which give a golden hue to the beads. On the top of the cap are four large badam patterns, each in the shape of a teardrop with curved end. Badam is the Persian word for almond, a plant native to Central Asia and Xinjiang. This motif is regularly used in the decoration of local carpets and textiles. Uygur men generally wear the so-called ‘almond’ pattern caps (badam doppa) in white embroidery on black velvet.

Based on a vendor’s note attached to the inside, we know that this is a woman's hat. The donor bought the cap, together with two others (FE.15-1983, FE.17-1983), in the capital city Urumqi in 1980, shortly after China reopened its borders as part of the Open Door Policy.
Collection
Accession number
FE.16-1983

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Record createdFebruary 12, 2000
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