Designs (2) for embroidered cuffs, dated 1844, by Sarah Bland (1810-1905).

Designs (2) in pen and ink on tracing paper for embroidered cuffs.

Given by Mrs D. McGregor

Historical significance: Within the study of embroidery, men tend to be recorded as professional embroiderers or pattern drawers, whereas women worked more ambigiously with designs for embroidery. Women's amateur as opposed to professional designs for embroidery raise problems because amateur work has tended to be regarded as less significant. Embroidery was a pastime but was also an economic activity. Upper middle class women's property was closely linked to their status within the family as daughters, wives and widows and only allowed semi-independence. This semi-independence was underpinned by legal, politial, and social practices which subordinated them. Nevertheless, it was combined with recognition of their economic worth within the family enterprise. However, women were restricted as they often could not be openly involved in working for money. See L. Davidoff and C. Hall (Reference Tab). Bland could not be seen to be working but it is likely that she embroidered accessories for dress, penwipers, tablecloths, book covers, and cushions as gifts which were her contribution to the household, wider family, and friendship. The quality of her samplers and designs shows the value of such gifts in terms of relationships with family and friends.

Material about the perceptions of a woman's role is pertinent to the discourse on women and therefore gender history. In Bland's case, the gift of designs demonstrates connections between relatives of merchant and banking families and is of historical significance in bonding between such families.

Sarah Bland (1810-1905) was listed as a 'gentlewoman' in the 1851 census return and is not recorded as having any occupation in the census returns for 1871 and 1901 which is consistent with her social status. The Blands stayed in the coastal resort of St. Leonards-on-Sea.

St. Leonards was developed by James Burton (1761-1837), builder and developer from 1828-1830. The 'Dispatch' coach started travelling between London and St. Leonards in 1830. This journey took seven and a half hours. In June 1846, the South Coast Railway from London to St. Leonards was opened. The census return recorded the Blands as living in the same crescent as James Burton's son, the architect, Decimus, in 1841.

The botanical painter, Marianne North (1830-1884) wintered in the nearby resort of Hastings and knew the artist William Henry Hunt 91790-1864), famous for his paintings of birds' nests. The resorts were a favoured place for artists. Bland also painted botanical illstration whilst in St. Leonards and she toured other parts of Sussex to record wild flowering plants

There are three samplers by Sarah Bland in the collection of the Textiles and Fashion Department: T.238-1967; T.239-1967 and T.240-1967.

Designs (2) for embroidered cuffs, dated 1844, by Sarah Bland (1810-1905). The designs are drawn on a sheet of tracing paper and were probably traced from a commercially available printed source. The sheet is inscribed 'St. L.' for the coastal resort of St. Leonards-on-Sea. The Blands stayed in this resort which was fashionable at that period. The resort was developed by James Burton (1761-1837), builder and developer from 1828-1830. The 'Dispatch' coach started travelling between London and St. Leonards in 1830. This journey took seven and a half hours. In June 1846, the South Coast Railway from London to St. Leonards was opened. The census return recorded the Blands as living in the same crescent as James Burton's son, the architect, Decimus, in 1841.

These designs are in an album which includes Bland's collection of her own botanically accurate designs, simplified patterns from accurate botanical observation, patterns traced from magazines, commercial, printed Berlin wool work patterns, gifts of patterns, including commercial ones from friends and relatives. The designs include those for petit-point, bead-work, decoration for dresses, collars and cuffs, aprons, slippers, tablecloths and covers, cushions, bags, penwipers, initial letters, alphabets etc. In Bland's case, the gift of designs demonstrates connections between relatives of merchant and banking families and is of historical significance in bonding such families.

E.372:103-1967