Waistcoat
20th century (made)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
Chinese garments did not originally have pockets like these but, by the beginning of the twentieth century, they were being added to traditional styles. This was a time when Chinese men started wearing western three-piece suits or a mix of Chinese and western modes. This waistcoat is made from closely woven black ribbed silk and it has a subdued pattern of lattice roundels woven into it. The pockets have been tailored to ensure there is no break in this design. The match across the sewing lines is meticulous as is that across the fold-line at the top of the pocket. This waistcoat has shoulder seams and the back is cut from one piece of cloth, which, like the pockets, are a sign of twentieth-century tailoring. Sleeveless jackets like this were usually worn over long robes and the slits at the sides allowed for expansion. The garment is versatile enough to be worn with western clothes and this may well have been how it was used. It was part of the bequest left too the V&A by Sir John Addis and, as a diplomat in China, he seems to have had several Chinese-style garments made especially for him.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Materials and techniques | Woven silk with self-patterned decoration |
Brief description | Man's waistcoat, woven black silk with self-patterned roundels, China, 20th century |
Physical description | Front-fastening waistcoat with a stand-up collar and two large pockets at waist level and one smaller breast pocket. There are seams along the shoulders but no central vertical seam down the back. The side seams are left unsewn for a little way both at the bottom and immediately under each arm. The garment is made from a closely-woven black ribbed silk with a small self-patterned geometric roundel pattern which matches across the pockets. It is lined throughout with dark blue satin weave silk and the edges are trimmed with narrow bias-cut black satin weave silk. The loop and knot buttons are also of black satin. |
Dimensions |
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Gallery label | This waistcoat may have been worn under a long robe but it was more common to wear it over the robe. It appears to have been less formal than the long-sleeved version. Sir John Addis himself might have worn this waistcoat as the size seems right and there is some indication of wear. It is unlikely that Sir John wore a long robe with it. This type of Chinese waistcoat was versatile enough to be combined with Western clothing styles. |
Credit line | Addis Bequest |
Object history | Registered File number 1965/3344. |
Summary | Chinese garments did not originally have pockets like these but, by the beginning of the twentieth century, they were being added to traditional styles. This was a time when Chinese men started wearing western three-piece suits or a mix of Chinese and western modes. This waistcoat is made from closely woven black ribbed silk and it has a subdued pattern of lattice roundels woven into it. The pockets have been tailored to ensure there is no break in this design. The match across the sewing lines is meticulous as is that across the fold-line at the top of the pocket. This waistcoat has shoulder seams and the back is cut from one piece of cloth, which, like the pockets, are a sign of twentieth-century tailoring. Sleeveless jackets like this were usually worn over long robes and the slits at the sides allowed for expansion. The garment is versatile enough to be worn with western clothes and this may well have been how it was used. It was part of the bequest left too the V&A by Sir John Addis and, as a diplomat in China, he seems to have had several Chinese-style garments made especially for him. |
Bibliographic reference | Crill, R., Wearden, J. & Wilson, V., Dress in Detail from Around the World, London: V&A Publications, 2002, pp.150-1
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Collection | |
Accession number | FE.129-1983 |
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Record created | February 12, 2000 |
Record URL |
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