Under-Kimono
1880-1920 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Under-kimono (juban) for a woman. The garment is of the usual kimono construction and has the addition of extra material either side of the front opening. There is a short overcollar of white crêpe silk. The sleeves are open to just under halfway at the wrist side, and at the body side they are left open until they join the main body garment.
The kimono is made up of two different materials each having different designs. The top section down to about hip level and including the greater part of each sleeve is in a thin plain weave silk. This has a diagonally-aligned wood grain pattern in turquoise, green and white produced by sequentially stitching, gathering, knotting and dyeing the fabric. The bottom part of the kimono, the straight neckband, the wrist openings and the inside sleeve edges are of black silk crêpe. On either side of the front opening, inside as well as outside, a tree design has been resisted out against the black and touches of embroidery in grey, white and silver have been added.
The main body of the garment down to hip level is lined with cream plain weave silk, and below hip level with black silk crêpe. The sleeves are lined with red plain weave silk and they have an inside cuff lining of black silk crêpe.
The kimono is made up of two different materials each having different designs. The top section down to about hip level and including the greater part of each sleeve is in a thin plain weave silk. This has a diagonally-aligned wood grain pattern in turquoise, green and white produced by sequentially stitching, gathering, knotting and dyeing the fabric. The bottom part of the kimono, the straight neckband, the wrist openings and the inside sleeve edges are of black silk crêpe. On either side of the front opening, inside as well as outside, a tree design has been resisted out against the black and touches of embroidery in grey, white and silver have been added.
The main body of the garment down to hip level is lined with cream plain weave silk, and below hip level with black silk crêpe. The sleeves are lined with red plain weave silk and they have an inside cuff lining of black silk crêpe.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Plain weave silk and silk crêpe |
| Brief description | Underkimono (juban) for a woman, main body of turquoise and black silk crêpe with hem opening with resist-dyed design of trees on the shore, Japan, 1880-1920 |
| Physical description | Under-kimono (juban) for a woman. The garment is of the usual kimono construction and has the addition of extra material either side of the front opening. There is a short overcollar of white crêpe silk. The sleeves are open to just under halfway at the wrist side, and at the body side they are left open until they join the main body garment. The kimono is made up of two different materials each having different designs. The top section down to about hip level and including the greater part of each sleeve is in a thin plain weave silk. This has a diagonally-aligned wood grain pattern in turquoise, green and white produced by sequentially stitching, gathering, knotting and dyeing the fabric. The bottom part of the kimono, the straight neckband, the wrist openings and the inside sleeve edges are of black silk crêpe. On either side of the front opening, inside as well as outside, a tree design has been resisted out against the black and touches of embroidery in grey, white and silver have been added. The main body of the garment down to hip level is lined with cream plain weave silk, and below hip level with black silk crêpe. The sleeves are lined with red plain weave silk and they have an inside cuff lining of black silk crêpe. |
| Dimensions |
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| Object history | Purchased. Registered File number 1987/493. The dates were assigned to this under-kimono and to FE.11, 12, 13 and 14-1987 by the vendor. No further work on the dating has been undertaken in the Department. |
| Historical context | For resist techniques of this kind and also pictures of under-kimono see Wada, Y., Kellogg Rice, M., & Barton, J., Shibori: The Inventive Art of Japanese Shaped Resist Dyeing, Tokyo: Kodansha, 1983. NAL Bibliographic Ref. No.: 505.F.31 For a 19th century juban see Stinchecum, A., Kosode: 16th – 19th Century Textiles from the Nomura Collection New York & Tokyo: Japan Society and Kodansha International, 1984, pp. 190-1, plate 56. NAL Bibliographic Ref. No.: 18.HH.158 |
| Associated objects |
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| Bibliographic reference | Jackson, Anna, Japanese Textiles in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London: V&A Publications, 2000, plate 111 |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | FE.15-1987 |
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| Record created | February 12, 2000 |
| Record URL |
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