Under-Kimono thumbnail 1
Under-Kimono thumbnail 2
Not on display

Under-Kimono

1940 - 1949 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Under-kimono (juban or jiban) for a woman. The garment is of the usual kimono construction and has the addition of extra material either side of the front opening. There is a short overcollar of cream plain weave cotton. The sleeves are open all the way up at the wrist side and there is an oversewn stitch a third of the way down the edge of each sleeve. At the body side the sleeves are left open until they join the main garment body. The main garment body is lined with cream plain weave silk and the sleeves are lined with the same decorated silk as is used for the outside.
The background silk is a self-patterned crêpe having a key-fret motif aligned diagonally across the surface. This design is produced by contrasting the warp and the weft faces of a 2/1 twill. Printed on this is a repeating pattern of clouds, bamboo and plum blossoms.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Woven silk crêpe with a printed repeating design
Brief description
Juban for a woman, woven silk with a printed repeating design, Japan, 1940s
Physical description
Under-kimono (juban or jiban) for a woman. The garment is of the usual kimono construction and has the addition of extra material either side of the front opening. There is a short overcollar of cream plain weave cotton. The sleeves are open all the way up at the wrist side and there is an oversewn stitch a third of the way down the edge of each sleeve. At the body side the sleeves are left open until they join the main garment body. The main garment body is lined with cream plain weave silk and the sleeves are lined with the same decorated silk as is used for the outside.
The background silk is a self-patterned crêpe having a key-fret motif aligned diagonally across the surface. This design is produced by contrasting the warp and the weft faces of a 2/1 twill. Printed on this is a repeating pattern of clouds, bamboo and plum blossoms.
Dimensions
  • Height: 4in
  • Width: 4in
Style
Object history
Purchased. Registered File number 1987/493.

The dates were assigned to this under-kimono and to FE.11, 12, 13 and 15-1987 by the vendor. No further work on the dating has been undertaken in the Department.
Historical context
For resist techniques of this kind and also pictures of under-kimono see Wada, Y., Kellogg Rice, M., & Barton, J., Shibori: The Inventive Art of Japanese Shaped Resist Dyeing, Tokyo: Kodansha, 1983. NAL Bibliographic Ref. No.: 505.F.31

For a 19th century juban see Stinchecum, A., Kosode: 16th – 19th Century Textiles from the Nomura Collection New York & Tokyo: Japan Society and Kodansha International, 1984, pp. 190-1, plate 56. NAL Bibliographic Ref. No.: 18.HH.158
Subjects depicted
Associated objects
Bibliographic reference
Jackson, Anna, Japanese Textiles in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London: V&A Publications, 2000 plate 110
Collection
Accession number
FE.14-1987

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Record createdFebruary 12, 2000
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