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ao

Jacket
ca. 1875 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This detail exemplifies the meticulous attention that skilled Chinese artisans paid to the borders of garments. The entire robe is framed with several different trims, which cohere visually because they are confined to shades of blue, black and white. The part of the garment pictured is the trimming for the side slit, always the site of the densest decoration on Chinese women's clothing of this type. It accentuated the sway of the hips as the wearer walked along, often on bound feet. The wide band, densely covered with blue embroidery, goes along the hem, turns the corner with a neat mitre, and then blossoms out into a curlicue shape just above the side-slit opening. The curl is stretched over, and stuck down onto, a cotton base cut to shape and covered with paste. The paste also helps to bond the underside of this now stiffened scroll to the ground material and it is sewn down as well. This band is sandwiched between narrow bias-cut satin lengths in blue and slightly wider ones in black. The tiny blue edgings are folded and tucked under the wider bands and manipulated skilfully so that the blue always retains an even width throughout. A similar, though narrower, embroidered band is applied inside the broad band and is itself flanked in blue.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Titleao (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Twill-weave silk; embroidery in silk threads; gilt copper alloy
Brief description
Jacket for a Han Chinese woman (ao), twill-weave silk; embroidery in silk threads, China, about 1875
Physical description
Jacket for a Han Chinese woman (ao) of navy blue silk twill embroidered with coloured silks. The embroidery – which shows sprays of flowers (such as peonies and prunus), pomegranates and birds – is in Pekin knots, satin, stem and long and short stitch.

The jacket has wide, elbow-length sleeves with straight cuffs. The main part of the embroidery is located on the back side of the sleeves. The sleeve bands are of green silk satin with flowers and butterflies embroidered in bright shades of blue and purple silk in satin stitches. However, large parts of this embroidery have been worn away leaving only the inked outlines visible.

The garment fastens at the front with a clasp-style button made of gilt copper alloy at the neck, and two embroidered satin tapes at the central front. It has a small standing collar. There are slits at the sides with ruyitou scroll shape trimmings just above these openings. There is a continuous double black satin band along the edges at the neck and front opening. The hem and side slits are embroidered in three shades of blue silk in satin stitch.

The jacket is lined with blue cotton.
Dimensions
  • Length: 96.52cm
  • Across arms width: 134.61cm
Styles
Credit line
Bequeathed by Mrs S. G. Bishop
Production
Shanghai Style, ca. 1875. This kind of cut and this style of embroidery (three shades of blue, tight embroidery) are typical from Shanghai in the 1870-1875
Summary
This detail exemplifies the meticulous attention that skilled Chinese artisans paid to the borders of garments. The entire robe is framed with several different trims, which cohere visually because they are confined to shades of blue, black and white. The part of the garment pictured is the trimming for the side slit, always the site of the densest decoration on Chinese women's clothing of this type. It accentuated the sway of the hips as the wearer walked along, often on bound feet. The wide band, densely covered with blue embroidery, goes along the hem, turns the corner with a neat mitre, and then blossoms out into a curlicue shape just above the side-slit opening. The curl is stretched over, and stuck down onto, a cotton base cut to shape and covered with paste. The paste also helps to bond the underside of this now stiffened scroll to the ground material and it is sewn down as well. This band is sandwiched between narrow bias-cut satin lengths in blue and slightly wider ones in black. The tiny blue edgings are folded and tucked under the wider bands and manipulated skilfully so that the blue always retains an even width throughout. A similar, though narrower, embroidered band is applied inside the broad band and is itself flanked in blue.
Collection
Accession number
T.2-1957

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Record createdApril 20, 2009
Record URL
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