Man's dragon robe, silk tapestry (kesi) in three shades of blue (sanlan), China, Qing dynasty, 1736-1820.

Man's dragon robe of silk tapestry (kesi) in three shades of blue (sanlan). Semi-formal wear. Side fastening gown with five gilt buttons, long and tight sleeves, horse-hoof cuffs, slits on the front, the back and at sides. No collar.

The pattern follows the traditional sequence of a dragon robe with a large front-facing dragon in the centre. (on the back and on the front of the robe) curled around a sacred pearl. Beneath are two dragons facing the centre each pursuing a sacred pearl. All the dragons are five-clawed. Below is the three-peaked mountain amid waves and below a striped border representing the deep water(lishui). Scattered around the dragons are a few clouds, bats, flowers and peaches. The Twelve Imperial Insignia are woven in (The Sun and Moon discs, the three star Constellation , the Rock, the Axe Head, the Fu symbol (resembling two Es back to back) The Golden Pheasant, the Double Dragons, the pair of Sacrificial Cups, the Water Plant, the Flames the dish of Millet Seeds).
The slightly elongated and chiselled face of the dragon and the shape of the dragons eyes resemble those seen in imperial dragon motifs of the Qianlong to Jiaqing periods. The design of waves and foams looks like those on Qianlong periods's dragon robe. The matixiu cuffs are small and short like on the 18th century gowns. The kesi tapestry is of a high and fine quality, the slits are very narrow. Some details of the pattern have been added in black ink with a brush. Because of the lack of provenance and despite the presence of twelve imperial insignia there is no certainty that this was the robe of an imperial family's member
However the sleeves may have been altered at a much later period, and the stretch of blue silk joining the main body of the robe with the sleeve cuffs may be a more modern piece of textile, as it is different from the texture normally found on Chinese dragon robes.

Purchased with Art Fund support

Registered File number 1947/374. From the collection of Bernard Vuilleumier.

Possibly reign of the Qianlong and Jiaqing emperors

This is a dragon robe, made to be worn by a man, and woven in sanlan (Three Blue) shades in the kesi method of tapestry weaving. Some of the Twelve Imperial Insignia are woven in (suggesting an exclusive association with the Emperor), interspersed with peaches and bats.

Although the Twelve Imperial Insignia were restricted solely for the use of the Emperor and Emperess, we do not know if this robe was ever worn by one. The robe, particularly the sleeves, may have been altered at a much more later period, and the stretch of blue silk joining the main body of the robe with the sleeve cuffs may be a more modern piece of textile, as it is different from the texture normally found on Chinese dragon robes.

T.189-1948