Not currently on display at the V&A

Handkerchief

Handkerchief
c.1867 (made)
Artist/Maker
Unknown
Place of origin
Kolkata (made)
West Bengal (made)

This delightful handkerchief is embroidered in white cotton thread with a repeating design of figures, palm trees and what appears to be railway carriages. Trains were popluar motifs in both embroidered and woven fabrics in Bengal in the 19th century. This type of fine white-on-white embroidery is known as chikan work, a term of unknown origin, and it was done mainly in Dhaka (today the capital of Bangladesh) and Calcutta in eastern India, and then in Lucknow.


Object details

Categories
ELISE
Textiles
Accessories
SCRAN
India Museum
Object type
Handkerchief
TitleHandkerchief
Materials and techniques
White muslin, with white cotton and pink silk embroidery
Muslin
Cotton
Silk
Embroidered
Brief description
Handkerchief, with 'chikan' embroidery, Kolkata, West Bengal, c.1867
Physical description
White muslin handkerchief with a border of 'chikan' embroidery in white cotton and pink silk, depicting figures in a type of Muslim dress and early steam locomotives, palm trees and birds.
Dimensions
  • Approx. height: 42cm
  • Approx. width: 42cm
Object history
This example of 'chikan' embroidery was shown at the Paris Exhibition in 1867. Transferred from the India Museum in 1879. 1880 Register Entry: [Case 18] '0542. HANDKERCHIEF. Muslin, embroidered; Calcutta. 5721'. India Museum Slip book entry 5721: 'Pocket Handkerchief / Calcutta / 1867 / Price Rs.10 / Original nos. 1834 / chicken worked'.
Historical context
The East India Railway opened between Calcutta (Howrah) and Pandua in 1854.
Subjects depicted
Figures (Representations)
Steam Locomotives
Palm Trees
Bird
Association
Paris Exhibition, 1867
Summary
This delightful handkerchief is embroidered in white cotton thread with a repeating design of figures, palm trees and what appears to be railway carriages. Trains were popluar motifs in both embroidered and woven fabrics in Bengal in the 19th century. This type of fine white-on-white embroidery is known as chikan work, a term of unknown origin, and it was done mainly in Dhaka (today the capital of Bangladesh) and Calcutta in eastern India, and then in Lucknow.
Bibliographic references
  • Arts of Bengal : the heritage of Bangladesh and eastern India : an exhibition organized by the Whitechapel Art Gallery in collaboration with the Victoria and Albert Museum : 9 November-30 December 1979, Whitechapel Art Gallery ..., 12 January-17 February 1980, Manchester City Art Gallery ... . [London]: Whitechapel Art Gallery, [1979] Number: 085488047X (pbk.) : p.67
  • Indian embroidery / Rosemary Crill ; photography by Richard Davis. London: V&A Publications, 1999 Number: 185177310X, 1851772944 (pbk.) p.57, cat. no. 46
Other number
5721 - India Museum Slip Book
Collection
South & South East Asia Collection
Accession number
0542(IS)

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Record createdDecember 22, 1999
Record URL
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O18878/handkerchief-handkerchief-unknown/
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