Necklace
c. 1970 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
This striking example of Chanel costume jewellery is a close adaptation of a necklace now in the V&A's Jewellery Gallery made by Carlo Giuliano in about 1881, with gilt metal and imitation pearls in place of silver-gilt and bowenite. The distinctive original (M.9-2011), based on Gujurati plaques (examples of which are also in the V&A collection, Indian Section) is linked to the necklace depicted in Edward Poynter's painting 'Helen of Troy'. The necklaces reveal a fascinating chain of influence across continents and over a hundres years, illustrating the dissemination of styles from the local and traditional to the metropolitan and then into costume jewellery.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Gilt metal and imitation pearls |
| Brief description | Necklace of gilt metal and imitation pearls, Chanel, c.1970 |
| Physical description | Necklace of gilt metal beads and imitation pearls, with three wide trapezoid plaques of Gujurati inspiration at the front, each decorated with a repeating pattern of spirals. The imitation pearls have gilt metal caps, the beads are four-sided ovals. A brass spring ring clasp fastens at the back. |
| Dimensions |
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| Marks and inscriptions | Stamped CHANEL on reverse of central plaque |
| Credit line | Given by Julia Rover in memory of Roy Rover |
| Object history | The inspiration for this necklace perhaps came from the Nineteenth-century neckace by Carlo Giuliano in the V&A collection (M.9-2011) which was based on a Gujurati necklace depicted in a painting of Helen of Troy exhibited by Sir Edward Poynter at the Royal Academy in 1881. |
| Summary | This striking example of Chanel costume jewellery is a close adaptation of a necklace now in the V&A's Jewellery Gallery made by Carlo Giuliano in about 1881, with gilt metal and imitation pearls in place of silver-gilt and bowenite. The distinctive original (M.9-2011), based on Gujurati plaques (examples of which are also in the V&A collection, Indian Section) is linked to the necklace depicted in Edward Poynter's painting 'Helen of Troy'. The necklaces reveal a fascinating chain of influence across continents and over a hundres years, illustrating the dissemination of styles from the local and traditional to the metropolitan and then into costume jewellery. |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | M.10-2024 |
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| Record created | April 22, 2024 |
| Record URL |
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