Look no 28
Ensemble
1965 (made)
1965 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
This classic Chanel suit and hat are from the Spring Summer 1965 haute couture collection. The suit features several Chanel hallmarks: a straight-cut jacket, contrasting lining fabric which matches the blouse of the dress, custom buttons that emulate the surface of the cloque suit fabric and a metal chain sewn into the inner hem to ensure the fabric falls perfectly as the wearer moves. Chanel suits like this were favoured by many of the world's most stylish and celebrated women and the Chanel suit would go on to become one of twentieth-century fashion’s most enduring and iconic styles.
Cocktail suits like this were produced by Chanel as eveningwear from the late 1950s onwards. They followed the same form as her day suits but were realised in richly decorative fabrics including gold and silver lamés, lurex and intricately patterned silks. The fabric featured in this cocktail suit and hat is a white cloque textured weave ‘Arnel’ fabric which was produced by French luxury textile manufacturer Maison Hurel. The fabric gives the illusion of being rippled or blistered and features a floral quilted pattern, creating an almost three-dimensional effect. At the time of its launch in 1965, variations of this suit design featured in a number of fashion magazines, including an advertisement for ‘Arnel’ fabric by Maison Hurel in Vogue France, March 1965 p85.
The navy satin silk evening bag dates from 1965. It features a metal turn lock fastening at the front, a stictched interlocking 'CC' motif on the inside flap and the signature diamond quilting which appears on many of the most iconic Chanel handbags including the 2.55. The handbag was originally designed for Spring Summer 1961 but continued in subsequent collections.
Gabrielle Chanel produced handbags in her collections from the 1920s onwards and were fundamental to her concept of a harmonious silhouette. They have continued to be one of the most successful lines produced by the House of CHANEL and, whether new or vintage, have remained highly sought after and collectable for some years.
Cocktail suits like this were produced by Chanel as eveningwear from the late 1950s onwards. They followed the same form as her day suits but were realised in richly decorative fabrics including gold and silver lamés, lurex and intricately patterned silks. The fabric featured in this cocktail suit and hat is a white cloque textured weave ‘Arnel’ fabric which was produced by French luxury textile manufacturer Maison Hurel. The fabric gives the illusion of being rippled or blistered and features a floral quilted pattern, creating an almost three-dimensional effect. At the time of its launch in 1965, variations of this suit design featured in a number of fashion magazines, including an advertisement for ‘Arnel’ fabric by Maison Hurel in Vogue France, March 1965 p85.
The navy satin silk evening bag dates from 1965. It features a metal turn lock fastening at the front, a stictched interlocking 'CC' motif on the inside flap and the signature diamond quilting which appears on many of the most iconic Chanel handbags including the 2.55. The handbag was originally designed for Spring Summer 1961 but continued in subsequent collections.
Gabrielle Chanel produced handbags in her collections from the 1920s onwards and were fundamental to her concept of a harmonious silhouette. They have continued to be one of the most successful lines produced by the House of CHANEL and, whether new or vintage, have remained highly sought after and collectable for some years.
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Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Parts | This object consists of 6 parts.
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| Title | Look no 28 (series title) |
| Materials and techniques | Quilted cloque 'Arnel' cellulose triacetate fabric and silk lining and facing |
| Brief description | Ensemble of white 'Arnel' quilted fabric and navy silk dress, jacket and hat, Gabrielle Chanel, Paris, look n° 28 Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 1965. Evening bag of navy quilted satin silk, Gabrielle Chanel, 1965. |
| Physical description | Ensemble of white 'Arnel' quilted fabric and navy silk dress, jacket and hat, Gabrielle Chanel, look n° 28 Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 1965. Evening bag of navy quilted satin silk, Gabrielle Chanel, 1965. The dress features a navy silk blouse with a bow at the neck and a white 'Arnel' quilted cloque fabric skirt. The straight-cut quilted cloque jacket is lined in navy silk to match the blouse and lining of the dress. It features two pockets that sit low at the jacket hem. The pockets, collar and cuffs have been faced in contrasting navy silk. It is single-breasted with three moulded plastic buttons which emulate the rippled surface of the fabric. A metal chain is sewn into the inner hem of the jacket to ensure the fabric falls perfectly as the wearer moves. The navy satin silk evening bag is envelope style with a metal turn lock fastening at the front flap and the signature Chanel diamond quilting on the surface fabric. |
| Production type | Haute couture |
| Marks and inscriptions |
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| Gallery label |
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| Credit line | Given by David Hirschel, Veronica Rosenberg and their families in memory of Sara Tauba (Antoinette) Hirschel |
| Object history | This ensemble was offered as a gift by the family of the late-wearer Sara Tauba (Antoinette) Hirschel following the press launch of the Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto exhibition in 2023. The Patrimoine de CHANEL in Paris has confirmed that the suit, hat and bag were commissioned directly from the House of CHANEL in 1965 by couture client Sara Tauba (Antoinette) Hirschel. Antoinette was born in Poland, spent her childhood in Belgium and emigrated to London following the German invasion of Belgium in 1940. She remained fashion conscious until her death at the age of 101, dressing in Dior, Norman Hartnell, Chanel and Missoni. Although she owned several Chanel ready-to-wear suits, this is the only Chanel haute couture suit tailormade for Antoinette. According to the wearer’s family, it was probably specially commissioned to celebrate her 25th wedding anniversary to husband Saul. |
| Summary | This classic Chanel suit and hat are from the Spring Summer 1965 haute couture collection. The suit features several Chanel hallmarks: a straight-cut jacket, contrasting lining fabric which matches the blouse of the dress, custom buttons that emulate the surface of the cloque suit fabric and a metal chain sewn into the inner hem to ensure the fabric falls perfectly as the wearer moves. Chanel suits like this were favoured by many of the world's most stylish and celebrated women and the Chanel suit would go on to become one of twentieth-century fashion’s most enduring and iconic styles. Cocktail suits like this were produced by Chanel as eveningwear from the late 1950s onwards. They followed the same form as her day suits but were realised in richly decorative fabrics including gold and silver lamés, lurex and intricately patterned silks. The fabric featured in this cocktail suit and hat is a white cloque textured weave ‘Arnel’ fabric which was produced by French luxury textile manufacturer Maison Hurel. The fabric gives the illusion of being rippled or blistered and features a floral quilted pattern, creating an almost three-dimensional effect. At the time of its launch in 1965, variations of this suit design featured in a number of fashion magazines, including an advertisement for ‘Arnel’ fabric by Maison Hurel in Vogue France, March 1965 p85. The navy satin silk evening bag dates from 1965. It features a metal turn lock fastening at the front, a stictched interlocking 'CC' motif on the inside flap and the signature diamond quilting which appears on many of the most iconic Chanel handbags including the 2.55. The handbag was originally designed for Spring Summer 1961 but continued in subsequent collections. Gabrielle Chanel produced handbags in her collections from the 1920s onwards and were fundamental to her concept of a harmonious silhouette. They have continued to be one of the most successful lines produced by the House of CHANEL and, whether new or vintage, have remained highly sought after and collectable for some years. |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.81:1 to 6-2023 |
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| Record created | November 10, 2023 |
| Record URL |
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