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Not currently on display at the V&A

Oku

Dress
2020 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Womenswear label Fruché is based in Lagos and was founded by Frank Aghuno in 2014. The name Fruché is a combination of Frank’s English name and one of his Igbo names, Uche. Aghuno was not formally trained in fashion and established the brand while studying Finance at the University of Lagos. The brand regulalry shows at the popular Lagos Fashion Week .

Through his work, Aghuno wants to challenge misconceptions in Nigerian culture about feminism which he argues is often seen as a negative European influence, but was in fact prominent in precolonial Nigeria. His work is also shaped by the influence of his mother, whom he describes as a ‘vocal feminist’.

The ’Fire’ dress was created as part of Fruché’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection titled Free Spirits II and was inspired by the Agbogho Mmuo (Maiden Spirits) - performances which are held annually in the northern part of Igbo’s traditional territory in Nigeria. Acted out by men, these performances showcase an ideal image of the Igbo maiden.

Feathers are a staple part of the collection, and are used by Aghuno to reference the bird of creation, a prominent motif in his work. This form-fitting turtleneck dress is made from black lace embellished with black beads, supplanted with red, orange and yellow dyed ostrich features to create a flame effect. To manage costs Anghuno produces his collections in small batches, with the designs made up once an order has been received.





Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleOku (assigned by artist)
Materials and techniques
Lace, ostrich feathers
Brief description
'Oku' dress, black lace and red/orange/yellow ostrich feathers, Frank Aghuno for Fruché, Lagos, Nigeria, Spring/Summer 2020
Physical description
Body-con high-neck black lace dress with long sleeves, and hem just below the knees. The dress is embellished with ostrich feathers dyed red, orange and yellow which are applied down the front of the dress to give a flame effect.
Production typeReady to wear
Object history
This dress was used as a key image for the V&A Africa Fashion exhibition marketing campaign. In 2021 the V&A commissioned Lakin Ogunbanwo to create a film for Africa Fashion to be played in the ceiling vaults of Gallery 40. Stylist Nathan Klein was appointed to dress the dancers using clothes by designers with work in the exhibition. Alongside this, Klein approached Fruché to provide some outfits for the shoot. The ‘Oku’ dress, and the dancer wearing it, Salome Gomes-Trezise, became a prominent part of the film and the eventual marketing campaign stills.
Production
ready-to-wear design, sold through various platforms, produced in small batches once order is submitted
Summary
Womenswear label Fruché is based in Lagos and was founded by Frank Aghuno in 2014. The name Fruché is a combination of Frank’s English name and one of his Igbo names, Uche. Aghuno was not formally trained in fashion and established the brand while studying Finance at the University of Lagos. The brand regulalry shows at the popular Lagos Fashion Week .

Through his work, Aghuno wants to challenge misconceptions in Nigerian culture about feminism which he argues is often seen as a negative European influence, but was in fact prominent in precolonial Nigeria. His work is also shaped by the influence of his mother, whom he describes as a ‘vocal feminist’.

The ’Fire’ dress was created as part of Fruché’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection titled Free Spirits II and was inspired by the Agbogho Mmuo (Maiden Spirits) - performances which are held annually in the northern part of Igbo’s traditional territory in Nigeria. Acted out by men, these performances showcase an ideal image of the Igbo maiden.

Feathers are a staple part of the collection, and are used by Aghuno to reference the bird of creation, a prominent motif in his work. This form-fitting turtleneck dress is made from black lace embellished with black beads, supplanted with red, orange and yellow dyed ostrich features to create a flame effect. To manage costs Anghuno produces his collections in small batches, with the designs made up once an order has been received.



Collection
Accession number
T.7-2023

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Record createdOctober 31, 2022
Record URL
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