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Not on display

Dress
1976
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Roy Halston Frowick (1932 - 1990), more commonly known as Halston, was a successful American fashion designer who was most influential in the 1970s. His smart yet comfortable women’s clothing made an original contribution to American fashion, at a time when US customers were still looking to Europe.

Starting his career in millinery, Halston achieved great recognition after designing the pillbox hat worn by Jacqueline Kennedy to John F. Kennedy’s inauguration in 1961. After presenting his first collection in 1966 and designing womenswear under the label ‘From Halston’ for Bergdorf Goodman, Halston launched Halston Ltd. in October 1968, and opened his first retail boutique in 1972 on Madison Avenue, NY. Two of Halston’s best remembered designs date from this period, the Caftan and the Ultrasuede shirt dress.

Halston first saw Ultrasuede at a party where Issey Miyake had used the fabric for his own outfit. This encouraged Halston to release his first Ultrasuede look: a raincoat for his S/S 1971 collection, believing wrongly that the fabric was water repellent (in fact, Halston had misunderstood Miyake on this point). The raincoat was then followed by the shirt dress, originally called 'model 704'.

After its release in 1972, Halston’s shirt dress became a staple in many women’s wardrobes. Its cut and construction drew from the lines of a man’s shirt; however, it was reconstructed in a way by which it became a Halston original, rather than a feminized man’s garment.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Title
Materials and techniques
Polyester and polyurethane blend Ultrasuede.
Brief description
Halston Ultrasuede shirt dress, tie belt, maroon, 1976.
Physical description
Maroon shirt dress with tie belt. Oversized sharply pointed collar, yoke in back, and long sleeves that end in a pleated two-button cuff. Eight centre-front buttons commencing at the breastbone, two inseam pockets. Above knee in length and A-line shape. Label in back of neck reads 'HALSTON'.
Dimensions
  • Width: 48cm (Note: Bust)
  • Width: 45cm (Note: Waist)
  • Length: 93cm (Note: Length of dress centre front)
  • Length: 108cm (Note: Length of dress centre back)
  • Length: 58.5cm (Note: Arm)
  • Circumference: 140cm (Note: Skirt hem)
Production typeReady to wear
Marks and inscriptions
INT. LADIES GARMENT, WORKERS UNION. UNION MADE ILGWU. MADE IN U.S.A.
Credit line
Given by Helen Webster
Object history
Purchased by donor in the USA, at a department store in either Missouri or San Francisco.
Summary
Roy Halston Frowick (1932 - 1990), more commonly known as Halston, was a successful American fashion designer who was most influential in the 1970s. His smart yet comfortable women’s clothing made an original contribution to American fashion, at a time when US customers were still looking to Europe.

Starting his career in millinery, Halston achieved great recognition after designing the pillbox hat worn by Jacqueline Kennedy to John F. Kennedy’s inauguration in 1961. After presenting his first collection in 1966 and designing womenswear under the label ‘From Halston’ for Bergdorf Goodman, Halston launched Halston Ltd. in October 1968, and opened his first retail boutique in 1972 on Madison Avenue, NY. Two of Halston’s best remembered designs date from this period, the Caftan and the Ultrasuede shirt dress.

Halston first saw Ultrasuede at a party where Issey Miyake had used the fabric for his own outfit. This encouraged Halston to release his first Ultrasuede look: a raincoat for his S/S 1971 collection, believing wrongly that the fabric was water repellent (in fact, Halston had misunderstood Miyake on this point). The raincoat was then followed by the shirt dress, originally called 'model 704'.

After its release in 1972, Halston’s shirt dress became a staple in many women’s wardrobes. Its cut and construction drew from the lines of a man’s shirt; however, it was reconstructed in a way by which it became a Halston original, rather than a feminized man’s garment.
Collection
Accession number
T.5-2023

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Record createdOctober 24, 2022
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