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Costume

Costume
2021 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The BBC TV drama ‘Peaky Blinders’ (2013-2022) starred Cillian Murphy as Thomas Shelby, the leader of a Birmingham-based gang (based on a real-life gang of the same name) as they ascend the social and political ladder of early 20th century Britain. Filmed in a cinematically epic and stylistic way, and featuring music by Nick Cave, PJ Harvey and David Bowie, the show became a global phenomenon.

Aside from the programme’s cultural success and relevance, of significant importance were the show’s costumes (as well as the characters’ trademark haircuts), which were informed by historical research and sparked new fashion trends. Traversing the 1920s – 1930s, the tailored suits, hand-picked vintage items and character-driven detail transformed several characters into style icons. In particular, the success of the show has been credited with reviving the popularity of the 'news boy' or 'baker boy' flat cap, which in the early twentieth century was worn by both young aristocrats and working-class men. Featuring eight sections with a covered button in the centre, the cap was specified as being worn by the real life 'Peaky Blinders' gang members in the 20th century, who were known to hide a sharp piece of steel or metal inside the hat to be used as a weapon.

Leading costume designer Alison McCosh was crucial to the success of the programme, working collaboratively with the actors to create their looks. Helen McCrory (1968-2021) who portrayed ‘Aunt Polly’ worked with McCosh to create the bohemian, subtly glamorous style of the family matriarch, while Cillian Murphy devised with McCosh the textures of Thomas Shelby’s tailored suits, which shifted accordingly with each new time period.

Object details

Category
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 15 parts.

  • Costume
  • Costume
  • Costume
  • Costume
  • Costume
  • Costume
  • Costume
  • Costume
  • Costume
  • Costume
  • Costume
  • Costume
  • Costume
  • Costume
  • Costume
TitleCostume (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Brief description
Costume for Sophie Rundle as Ada Thorne (née Shelby) in Peaky Blinders, designed by Alison McCosh
Physical description
Costume for Sophie Rundle as Ada Thorne (née Shelby) in Peaky Blinders, designed by Alison McCosh. Tailored wool grey suit with a knit vest, leather overcoat with fur collar, wool hat with feathers, fur stole and blue clutch bag. The costume also comes with accessories including a silver watch, silver brooch, gold bracelet, pearl earrings and three rings. One ring (part 11) contains a ruby (ruby spectrum) and another (part 11) contains a blue lace agate stone, a type of polycrystalline quartz.
Credit line
Costumes provided courtesy of Caryn Mandabach Productions and Tiger Aspect Productions
Object history
This costume was worn by Sophie Rundle as Ada Thorne in episode 3 ('Gold') of series 6 of 'Peaky Blinders' in several scenes at the Shelby Co. offices. The suit was originally made for Helen McCrory's character Polly Gray but was retailored for Rundle after McCrory passed away in 2021.

The leather coat was not worn with this costume in the same episode as it did not fit over the suit. It was worn over a dress in episode 2 ('Black Shirt') of series 6 in a scene outside the Garrison Tavern.
Summary
The BBC TV drama ‘Peaky Blinders’ (2013-2022) starred Cillian Murphy as Thomas Shelby, the leader of a Birmingham-based gang (based on a real-life gang of the same name) as they ascend the social and political ladder of early 20th century Britain. Filmed in a cinematically epic and stylistic way, and featuring music by Nick Cave, PJ Harvey and David Bowie, the show became a global phenomenon.

Aside from the programme’s cultural success and relevance, of significant importance were the show’s costumes (as well as the characters’ trademark haircuts), which were informed by historical research and sparked new fashion trends. Traversing the 1920s – 1930s, the tailored suits, hand-picked vintage items and character-driven detail transformed several characters into style icons. In particular, the success of the show has been credited with reviving the popularity of the 'news boy' or 'baker boy' flat cap, which in the early twentieth century was worn by both young aristocrats and working-class men. Featuring eight sections with a covered button in the centre, the cap was specified as being worn by the real life 'Peaky Blinders' gang members in the 20th century, who were known to hide a sharp piece of steel or metal inside the hat to be used as a weapon.

Leading costume designer Alison McCosh was crucial to the success of the programme, working collaboratively with the actors to create their looks. Helen McCrory (1968-2021) who portrayed ‘Aunt Polly’ worked with McCosh to create the bohemian, subtly glamorous style of the family matriarch, while Cillian Murphy devised with McCosh the textures of Thomas Shelby’s tailored suits, which shifted accordingly with each new time period.
Associated object
Collection
Accession number
S.65:1 to 14-2022

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Record createdMay 12, 2022
Record URL
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