These two albums (E.251 and 252-2022) of watercolour designs comprise a personal record of the jewellery designer John James Oxer (d. 1901). One volume contains highly finished presentation designs. The second volume contains similar finished designs together with some sketches and photographs, as well as examples of illuminated lettering. The contents date from 1870 until Oxer’s death in 1901. The donor stated that much of his work was done for the firm Spink & Son. Spink is best known as a specialist in insignia and medals, but was also active in the fashionable London jewellery scene in the 1890s. Some of the designs are annotated with information about who commissioned or bought the works. The album includes a design for a turquoise and pearl aigrette which was apparently purchased by the Shah of Persia in 1889, and many of the designs are for monogrammed lockets, including one for Napoleon III of France and one for the aristocrat and writer Lady Brassey.
Styles incorporated by Oxer in his designs include Classical Greek, Runic, Tudor and Renaissance. He was clearly influenced by the work of Castellani, who pioneered archaeological revival jewellery in the early nineteenth century, and by Carlo Guiliano, a one-time employee of Castellani who set up independently in London in 1875. Oxer was particularly skilled in devising monograms and in using coloured enamel in his designs. He appears to have undertaken illuminated calligraphic work as a sideline, examples of which are also in the album.
The albums demonstrate Oxer’s wide-ranging output as well as aspects of his design process. They document the enthusiasm during the latter part of the nineteenth century for historicising styles in jewellery as well as the demand for monogrammed items, mourning jewellery, and ceremonial items.