Not on display

Panel

1800-1850 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Panel from a small purse of embroidered silk satin with silk in straight stitch and velvet stitch and with laid and couched metal thread. The embroidery is worked through a layer of plain-weave cotton. This is the rectangular back panel of a purse, and the upper part forms a triangle which would have been folded forwards to form the closing flap on the front. The flap is edged on its three sides with a 1 cm band of four laid silver threads which are folded back and forth to form a dense zig zag couched with light yellow silk. This forms the ground on which is a green leaf meander bearing small rosettes in red or purple velvet stitch. The central area has a large multi-petalled rosette in dark red, light green and orange framed by leaves in two shades of green and small blue edge rosettes, all in velvet stitch outlined with silver thread on a ground of laid and couched silver-gilt threads with orange silk in a chevron pattern.

The rectangular part of the panel is covered with metal thread couched in a chevron pattern using beige silk. There is a standing male and female figure, side-by-side, in Qajar dress. Over their heads are floral elements in multi-coloured silks in straight stitches with metal thread outlines while at their feet are three pyramids of 'fruit' in orange and yellow and flowering plants also in coloured silks outlined with metal thread. The male figure has a Qajar crown, a long dark blue tunic edged in red, red trousers, striped belt and jewelled arm bracelets. He is being handed fruit by his female companion who wears diagonally striped trousers, thigh length red patterned jacket with metallic buttons and a dark blue under shirt. She has long multi-plaited hair. The faces are very detailed.

Metal Thread: silver or silver-gilt wire.
Embroidery Thread: Silk, 2Z and some 2S; colours include three shades of green, 2 shades of light blue, purple, white, yellow, orange, crimson, black, dark blue, pink.

Backing: coarse plain weave white cotton.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Embroidered silk satin with silk, metal threads, cotton
Brief description
Panel from a small purse of embroidered silk satin with silk, Iran, 1800-1850
Physical description
Panel from a small purse of embroidered silk satin with silk in straight stitch and velvet stitch and with laid and couched metal thread. The embroidery is worked through a layer of plain-weave cotton. This is the rectangular back panel of a purse, and the upper part forms a triangle which would have been folded forwards to form the closing flap on the front. The flap is edged on its three sides with a 1 cm band of four laid silver threads which are folded back and forth to form a dense zig zag couched with light yellow silk. This forms the ground on which is a green leaf meander bearing small rosettes in red or purple velvet stitch. The central area has a large multi-petalled rosette in dark red, light green and orange framed by leaves in two shades of green and small blue edge rosettes, all in velvet stitch outlined with silver thread on a ground of laid and couched silver-gilt threads with orange silk in a chevron pattern.

The rectangular part of the panel is covered with metal thread couched in a chevron pattern using beige silk. There is a standing male and female figure, side-by-side, in Qajar dress. Over their heads are floral elements in multi-coloured silks in straight stitches with metal thread outlines while at their feet are three pyramids of 'fruit' in orange and yellow and flowering plants also in coloured silks outlined with metal thread. The male figure has a Qajar crown, a long dark blue tunic edged in red, red trousers, striped belt and jewelled arm bracelets. He is being handed fruit by his female companion who wears diagonally striped trousers, thigh length red patterned jacket with metallic buttons and a dark blue under shirt. She has long multi-plaited hair. The faces are very detailed.

Metal Thread: silver or silver-gilt wire.
Embroidery Thread: Silk, 2Z and some 2S; colours include three shades of green, 2 shades of light blue, purple, white, yellow, orange, crimson, black, dark blue, pink.

Backing: coarse plain weave white cotton.
Dimensions
  • Length: 20cm (maximum)
  • Width: 7.5cm
  • Length: 8in
  • Width: 2.75in
Credit line
Given by Miss M. H. Tattersall
Object history
For diagram and instructions for velvet stitch see Mary Thomas 'Dictionary of Stitches' p. 205 fig. 293. This is usually a canvas work stitch, the loops are cut to imitate the pile of a knotted carpet.
Bibliographic reference
Published in 'Iranian Textiles' by Jennifer Wearden and Patricia L Baker (V&A Publishing, 2010) Plate 83.
Collection
Accession number
T.137-1962

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Record createdOctober 15, 2008
Record URL
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