Cap
1820-1880 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Cap, felted plain weave wool, padded, lined with black Astrakhan lamb and woven wool, possibly twill tapestry, interlined with plain weave silk, embroidered with silk in running, chain and straight stitches and trimmed with metal thread.
Four conical curved sections of plain weave felted scarlet red wool decorated along the contours with a composite edging, slightly wider at the base, of stepped diagonals either side of a band of small stepped lozenges in yellow, blue, white [A] or along the base yellow, black, green and white all in running stitches with the band outlines in chain stitch. The inner central space is divided into 2 zones by repeating [a], the upper triangular part decorated with 5 small cartouches outlined in blue, yellow and black, each containing a Shikashti [spelling?] inscription in one or two lines worked in black straight stitches, largely worn away. These bordered a triangular motif filled with stepped lozenges in green, yellow and blue. The lower part is rectangular containing a lobed cartouche outlined in green, white and black chain stitch framing a black and white inscription worked in straight stitches. Different on all 4 sides with an infill of a rosette and buds.
The cap extends to form a flap along the bottom: it is interlined with heavy plain weave silk behind a pieced red woollen fabric, possibly twill tapestry, with offset rows of botehs densely infilled with fan-shaped floral motifs against a densely packed ground; the predominant colours are light and dark blue, lightgreen, yellow, pink and white. This flap is also lined with Astrakhan and could be used as a neck protector or could be it could be worn upturned at the front [see mid-17th century Safavid Court paintings].
Facing: originally along all the lower edges but now just along the lower edge of the flap. Largely distintegrated because of moth damage but originally a dark blue and white striped wool, possibly twill tapestry. Bias-cut, the stripes contain a leaf meander in yellow or light green with red, white and yellow details.
Interlining: Where the facing has worn away it is possible to see an olive green plain weave silk interlining.
Trimming: on all seams and along the edges is a metal thread braid.
Embroidery Thread: silk, 2S.
Metal Thread: silver-gilt strip close S-wound on yellow silk core.
Four conical curved sections of plain weave felted scarlet red wool decorated along the contours with a composite edging, slightly wider at the base, of stepped diagonals either side of a band of small stepped lozenges in yellow, blue, white [A] or along the base yellow, black, green and white all in running stitches with the band outlines in chain stitch. The inner central space is divided into 2 zones by repeating [a], the upper triangular part decorated with 5 small cartouches outlined in blue, yellow and black, each containing a Shikashti [spelling?] inscription in one or two lines worked in black straight stitches, largely worn away. These bordered a triangular motif filled with stepped lozenges in green, yellow and blue. The lower part is rectangular containing a lobed cartouche outlined in green, white and black chain stitch framing a black and white inscription worked in straight stitches. Different on all 4 sides with an infill of a rosette and buds.
The cap extends to form a flap along the bottom: it is interlined with heavy plain weave silk behind a pieced red woollen fabric, possibly twill tapestry, with offset rows of botehs densely infilled with fan-shaped floral motifs against a densely packed ground; the predominant colours are light and dark blue, lightgreen, yellow, pink and white. This flap is also lined with Astrakhan and could be used as a neck protector or could be it could be worn upturned at the front [see mid-17th century Safavid Court paintings].
Facing: originally along all the lower edges but now just along the lower edge of the flap. Largely distintegrated because of moth damage but originally a dark blue and white striped wool, possibly twill tapestry. Bias-cut, the stripes contain a leaf meander in yellow or light green with red, white and yellow details.
Interlining: Where the facing has worn away it is possible to see an olive green plain weave silk interlining.
Trimming: on all seams and along the edges is a metal thread braid.
Embroidery Thread: silk, 2S.
Metal Thread: silver-gilt strip close S-wound on yellow silk core.
Object details
| Category | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | woollen yarn, fur, silk thread, metal thread, weaving, sewing, embroidering |
| Brief description | M, embroidered wool, 1800s, Persian; Inscription |
| Physical description | Cap, felted plain weave wool, padded, lined with black Astrakhan lamb and woven wool, possibly twill tapestry, interlined with plain weave silk, embroidered with silk in running, chain and straight stitches and trimmed with metal thread. Four conical curved sections of plain weave felted scarlet red wool decorated along the contours with a composite edging, slightly wider at the base, of stepped diagonals either side of a band of small stepped lozenges in yellow, blue, white [A] or along the base yellow, black, green and white all in running stitches with the band outlines in chain stitch. The inner central space is divided into 2 zones by repeating [a], the upper triangular part decorated with 5 small cartouches outlined in blue, yellow and black, each containing a Shikashti [spelling?] inscription in one or two lines worked in black straight stitches, largely worn away. These bordered a triangular motif filled with stepped lozenges in green, yellow and blue. The lower part is rectangular containing a lobed cartouche outlined in green, white and black chain stitch framing a black and white inscription worked in straight stitches. Different on all 4 sides with an infill of a rosette and buds. The cap extends to form a flap along the bottom: it is interlined with heavy plain weave silk behind a pieced red woollen fabric, possibly twill tapestry, with offset rows of botehs densely infilled with fan-shaped floral motifs against a densely packed ground; the predominant colours are light and dark blue, lightgreen, yellow, pink and white. This flap is also lined with Astrakhan and could be used as a neck protector or could be it could be worn upturned at the front [see mid-17th century Safavid Court paintings]. Facing: originally along all the lower edges but now just along the lower edge of the flap. Largely distintegrated because of moth damage but originally a dark blue and white striped wool, possibly twill tapestry. Bias-cut, the stripes contain a leaf meander in yellow or light green with red, white and yellow details. Interlining: Where the facing has worn away it is possible to see an olive green plain weave silk interlining. Trimming: on all seams and along the edges is a metal thread braid. Embroidery Thread: silk, 2S. Metal Thread: silver-gilt strip close S-wound on yellow silk core. |
| Dimensions |
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| Marks and inscriptions | (Embroidered with black silk as part of the decoration. This hats bears some inscriptions about dervish attitudes; some parts are worn away and are not legible. The reference is to a great Sassanian king of the 6th century AD.)
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| Bibliographic reference | Published in 'Iranian Textiles' by Jennifer Wearden and Patricia L Baker (V&A Publishing, 2010) Plate 69.
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| Collection | |
| Accession number | 952-1903 |
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| Record created | October 15, 2008 |
| Record URL |
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