Ensemble thumbnail 1
Ensemble thumbnail 2
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
Not currently on display at the V&A
On short term loan out for exhibition

Ensemble

2021 (designed and made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Lisa Folawiyo founded her eponymous brand in 2005 (at that time named Jewel by Lisa). Trained as a lawyer, Folawiyo has no formal training in fashion. She is regarded by the fashion industry as one of the founders of the contemporary African fashion scene, propelling African fashions onto the global stage. Folawiyo is known for her ready-to-wear designs made from printed cotton textiles, known in Nigeria as ankara and more widely as African-print cloth wax prints or Dutch wax prints. These have been fashionable in West and East Africa since the late 19th century, when they were produced in Europe for export to Africa. The technique used for wax print cottons was inspired by the Indonesian method of batik, where hot wax is used to draw patterns on a plain cloth before it is dyed so that the dye does not penetrate the areas covered by wax. The design process was characterised by collaboration manner, with local sellers, often women, advising merchants on popular patterns and colours. Political independence in the mid-to-late 20th century led to many African companies successfully establishing local centres of production.

This ensemble, the 'jossa' top and printed trousers, are characteristic of her design aesthetic.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Top
  • Trousers
Materials and techniques
Silk, cotton, printing, beading
Brief description
'Jossa' top and trousers, printed silk and cotton (top and bra), printed ankara and glass beads (trousers) designed by Lisa Folawiyo, Lagos, Nigeria, Spring/Summer 2021
Physical description
Top with overlaid bra detail (printed silk and cotton), ankara (resist-printed cotton) trousers with bead embellishment
Production typesmall batch
Gallery label
For Lagos-based Folawiyo, mixing contrasting patterns and colours is an integral part of her design process, present in every ensemble. Ankara (print cloth) is the starting point, and an important part of her heritage: ‘Our mothers, grandmothers and probably great-grandmothers have worn this fabric’. Juxtaposing different patterns to striking visual effect, she places this historic cloth in the current moment. Adding another layer, some pieces are embellished by hand with beads, which can take over 250 hours of painstaking work (T.46 to 48-2022). V&A, Room 40, Africa Fashion. (02/07/2022 - 16/04/2023)
Credit line
Purchased with funds from the Sue Smith bequest
Summary
Lisa Folawiyo founded her eponymous brand in 2005 (at that time named Jewel by Lisa). Trained as a lawyer, Folawiyo has no formal training in fashion. She is regarded by the fashion industry as one of the founders of the contemporary African fashion scene, propelling African fashions onto the global stage. Folawiyo is known for her ready-to-wear designs made from printed cotton textiles, known in Nigeria as ankara and more widely as African-print cloth wax prints or Dutch wax prints. These have been fashionable in West and East Africa since the late 19th century, when they were produced in Europe for export to Africa. The technique used for wax print cottons was inspired by the Indonesian method of batik, where hot wax is used to draw patterns on a plain cloth before it is dyed so that the dye does not penetrate the areas covered by wax. The design process was characterised by collaboration manner, with local sellers, often women, advising merchants on popular patterns and colours. Political independence in the mid-to-late 20th century led to many African companies successfully establishing local centres of production.

This ensemble, the 'jossa' top and printed trousers, are characteristic of her design aesthetic.
Collection
Accession number
T.48:1to2-2022

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Record createdJanuary 27, 2022
Record URL
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