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On loan
  • On short term loan out for exhibition

Dress

2021 (designed and made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Lisa Folawiyo founded her eponymous brand in 2005 (at that time named Jewel by Lisa). She is regarded by the fashion industry as one of the founders of the contemporary African fashion scene, propelling African fashions onto the global stage. Folawiyo is known for her ready-to-wear designs made from printed cotton textiles, known in Nigeria as ankara and more widely as African-print cloth wax prints or Dutch wax prints. These have been fashionable in West and East Africa since the late 19th century, when they were produced in Europe for export to Africa. The technique used for wax print cottons was inspired by the Indonesian method of batik, where hot wax is used to draw patterns on a plain cloth before it is dyed so that the dye does not penetrate the areas covered by wax. The design process was characterised by collaboration manner, with local sellers, often women, advising merchants on popular patterns and colours. Political independence in the mid-to-late 20th century led to many African companies successfully establishing local centres of production.

The ‘Irin’ dress was made for her Spring/Summer 2021 collection. The textile is hand dyed using a form of tie-dye by the Ido Aro, a group of dyers in Abeokuta, Nigeria. The dress is also heavily embellished with clear glass beads.

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read Cloth of a continent: Africa Fashion Africa is home to an abundance of cloth types, encompassing a breadth of materials and techniques as diverse as the continent itself. Revered for their distinctive weaving, dyeing, and decorative processes, as well as the raw materials used, these cloths are the tactile result of centuries...

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk and cotton, tie-dye (adire)
Brief description
Dress, 'Irin', multicoloured tie-dyed silk (bodice) and cotton (skirt), glass beads, designed by Lisa Folawiyo, Spring/Summer 2021, Lagos, Nigeria
Physical description
Midi dress, bodice is tie-dyed silk and the skirt is tie-dyed cotton (pink and blue) in an adire technique. The dress is heavily embellished with beads.
Production typesmall batch
Gallery label
(02/07/2022 - 16/04/2023)
For Lagos-based Folawiyo, mixing contrasting patterns and colours is an integral part of her design process, present in every ensemble. Ankara (print cloth) is the starting point, and an important part of her heritage: ‘Our mothers, grandmothers and probably great-grandmothers have worn this fabric’. Juxtaposing different patterns to striking visual effect, she places this historic cloth in the current moment. Adding another layer, some pieces are embellished by hand with beads, which can take over 250 hours of painstaking work (T.46 to 48-2022). V&A, Room 40, Africa Fashion.
Credit line
Purchased with funds from the Sue Smith bequest
Summary
Lisa Folawiyo founded her eponymous brand in 2005 (at that time named Jewel by Lisa). She is regarded by the fashion industry as one of the founders of the contemporary African fashion scene, propelling African fashions onto the global stage. Folawiyo is known for her ready-to-wear designs made from printed cotton textiles, known in Nigeria as ankara and more widely as African-print cloth wax prints or Dutch wax prints. These have been fashionable in West and East Africa since the late 19th century, when they were produced in Europe for export to Africa. The technique used for wax print cottons was inspired by the Indonesian method of batik, where hot wax is used to draw patterns on a plain cloth before it is dyed so that the dye does not penetrate the areas covered by wax. The design process was characterised by collaboration manner, with local sellers, often women, advising merchants on popular patterns and colours. Political independence in the mid-to-late 20th century led to many African companies successfully establishing local centres of production.

The ‘Irin’ dress was made for her Spring/Summer 2021 collection. The textile is hand dyed using a form of tie-dye by the Ido Aro, a group of dyers in Abeokuta, Nigeria. The dress is also heavily embellished with clear glass beads.
Collection
Accession number
T.47-2022

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Record createdDecember 21, 2021
Record URL
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