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Tea gown

  • Place of origin:

    Paris (made)

  • Date:

    ca. 1900 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Worth (designer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Satin, chiffon crêpe with ecru tamboured net, lace, lined, boned

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Lady Hoyer Millar

  • Museum number:

    T.48-1961

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

The elaborate and luxurious decoration on this gown characterises fashionable 'at home' wear of the late 19th century and early 20th. It was worn by the mother of Lady Hoyer Millar. In September 1900 The Queen, The Lady's Newspaper described the ideal tea-gown: 'It is quite a perfect gown showing soft falling kilted flounces at the hem, silk muslin or silk serving to enhance the beauty of incomparable lace'.

The waist stay (20 inch waist) has the 'Worth Paris' label and is inscribed with the number '63331'. Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895) was a celebrated couture dressmaker in Paris. He was born in England at Bourne in Lincolnshire, and started working at the age of 12 in a draper’s shop in London. After working for various haberdashers and silk mercers, he left for Paris in 1845. In 1858 he went into partnership with a Swedish businessman, Otto Bobergh, and opened his own house. He was soon patronised by the Empress Eugénie (1826-1920), wife of the French Emperor, Napoleon III, and her influence was instrumental to his success. Obtaining made-to-measure clothes from his house was a symbol of social and financial success. They were appreciated for their beauty, elegance and fine workmanship.

Physical description

Satin tea gown with two delicate overlayers of pink chiffon crêpe continuing over the train. The bodice is pouched into a broad satin belt with a falling sash. The gown is machine-stitched with hand-finished. Lined with two bones which fastens at the centre front and the bodice wraps over to fasten along the left side, all with hooks and eyes. Ecru tambour embroidered net draped over the shoulders. Low neck and trimmed with an insertion of the lace, as are the cuffs of the long gauge chiffon sleeves.

Place of Origin

Paris (made)

Date

ca. 1900 (made)

Artist/maker

Worth (designer)

Materials and Techniques

Satin, chiffon crêpe with ecru tamboured net, lace, lined, boned

Marks and inscriptions

'WORTH PARIS'
Marked on the waist-band

'63331'
Written on the back of the waist-band

Historical context note

Worn by Lady Hoyer Millar's mother just after the birth of her second child.

Couture number 63331

Descriptive line

Satin tea gown, probably designed by Worth, Paris, ca. 1900

Categories

Fashion; Women's clothes; Lace; Embroidery; Day wear; Europeana Fashion Project

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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