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Alchemy thumbnail 2
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This object consists of 6 parts, some of which may be located elsewhere.

Alchemy

Ensemble
2021 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Thebe Magugu founded his eponymous, ready-to-wear brand in Johannesburg, South Africa in 2017. Born in Kimberly, a small mining town in central South Africa, Magugu moved to Johannesburg to study at LISOF Fashion School (now The School of Fashion). Since its launch the brand has gone from strength-to-strength, winning the prestigious LVMH prize in 2019.
Magugu is known for his thoughtful and inventive collections which comment on the history, culture and politics of South Africa and Africa more generally. Through his work Magugu hopes to shine a light on lesser-known stories and histories, focusing on women’s histories in particular: ‘When people think of South Africa they typically think of Apartheid, people like Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. People think of the men most frequently, and a lot of the women’s histories and smaller stories that were equally as important are left to the margins.’

This ensemble comes from Magugu’s Alchemy collection released for Autumn/Winter 2021. The collection is a meditation on African spirituality, celebrating its pluralities, and the relationship we all have with our ancestors. For it he collaborated with Noentla Khumalo, a stylist and traditional healer. As part of the research process Khumalo threw onto a mat her divination tools, including goat knuckles, a police whistle and a die, which Magugu then photographed and abstracted into the print design seen on the shirt dress, apron and trousers. The ensemble is styled with a straw hat and a pair of white leather boots. The boots are the brands first shoe design, named the ‘Sunday Best Boot’. Magugu has explained that the exaggerated pointed toe of the boots references the elongated shoes worn by pastors in downtown Johannesburg.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 6 parts.

  • Shirt Dress
  • Apron
  • Trousers
  • Hat
  • Boot
  • Boot
TitleAlchemy (named collection)
Materials and techniques
Digitally printed wool (?), straw, leather, stainless steel
Brief description
Dress, trousers, apron and shoes, Sangoma print, Alchemy collection, designed by Thebe Magugu, Johannesburg, South Africa, Autumn/Winter 2021
Physical description
Ensemble, comprising of a collared button-up shirt dress (reaching mid-thigh) with two breast pockets and fabric covered buttons, straight trousers with deep turn-up and an apron with pocket on the front. The ensemble is made from wool printed with a photographic pattern.

The ensemble also includes a straw hat, the hat is made from plaited straw, it has a deep brim and an exagerated crown. It has a band of cloth around the crown and also hanging down to tie under the chin. This is made in the same textile as the ensemble.

The accompanying shoes are ankle boots made in white leather with a black sole. They have a severely pointed toe, they each have a zipper. The heel takes on an angular wedge shape. Magugu's logo -two women holding hands, known as the Sisterhood Emblem - is used as a faux buckle in stainless steel on the front of the boots.
Production typesmall batch
Gallery label
(02/07/2022 - 16/04/2023)
Magugu’s Alchemy collection centres on African spirituality and the relationship we have with our ancestors. He collaborated with Noentla Khumalo, a stylist and traditional healer, on the collection. Khumalo threw her divination tools onto a mat – including goat knuckles, a police whistle and dice – which Magugu then photographed and abstracted into a print design. V&A, Room 40, Africa Fashion
Credit line
Purchased with funds from the Sue Smith bequest
Summary
Thebe Magugu founded his eponymous, ready-to-wear brand in Johannesburg, South Africa in 2017. Born in Kimberly, a small mining town in central South Africa, Magugu moved to Johannesburg to study at LISOF Fashion School (now The School of Fashion). Since its launch the brand has gone from strength-to-strength, winning the prestigious LVMH prize in 2019.
Magugu is known for his thoughtful and inventive collections which comment on the history, culture and politics of South Africa and Africa more generally. Through his work Magugu hopes to shine a light on lesser-known stories and histories, focusing on women’s histories in particular: ‘When people think of South Africa they typically think of Apartheid, people like Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. People think of the men most frequently, and a lot of the women’s histories and smaller stories that were equally as important are left to the margins.’

This ensemble comes from Magugu’s Alchemy collection released for Autumn/Winter 2021. The collection is a meditation on African spirituality, celebrating its pluralities, and the relationship we all have with our ancestors. For it he collaborated with Noentla Khumalo, a stylist and traditional healer. As part of the research process Khumalo threw onto a mat her divination tools, including goat knuckles, a police whistle and a die, which Magugu then photographed and abstracted into the print design seen on the shirt dress, apron and trousers. The ensemble is styled with a straw hat and a pair of white leather boots. The boots are the brands first shoe design, named the ‘Sunday Best Boot’. Magugu has explained that the exaggerated pointed toe of the boots references the elongated shoes worn by pastors in downtown Johannesburg.
Collection
Accession number
T.80:1to6-2022

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Record createdNovember 8, 2021
Record URL
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