Djellabas & Tricks
Djellaba
2020 (designed and made)
2020 (designed and made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Amine Bendriouich is one of Morocco’s most prominent fashion designers and a key player in the cultural scene in Morocco. Born in Marrakech in the mid-1980s, he studied fashion design at the École supérieure des arts et techniques de la mode (ESMOD), Tunisia, before moving to Casablanca in 2007. He started selling T-shirts at the Boulevard Festival and attracted attention with a satirical design which featured the word hmar (jackass). The following week he was invited to show at FestiMode, Casablanca Fashion Week, and established his label Amine Bendriouich: Couture & Bullshit (AB-CB) shortly after in 2008. Bendriouich often collaborates with other creatives including photographer and designer Hassan Hajjaj and painter Kehinde Wiley.
Bendriouich describes his creations as ‘A uniform for non-conformists’ who do not ‘follow trends of season. AB-CB believes in rock & roll – the music, courage and urban hero’.
This piece comes from Bendriouich’s 2020 Djellaba & Tricks collection which focused on reinterpreting traditional Marrakchi djellabas, with their characteristic large volume and loose fit, for the contemporary moment. The designs introduce new codes from different elements of contemporary design, from the trench coat to the shirt. All the designs were produced in linen or silk, with material sourced from a vintage textile dealer with holdings from textile manufacturer Abraham Ltd, Zurich, best known for producing silk for haute couture clients in the mid-twentieth century. The embroidery was done by artisans in the medina of Marrakesh.
The red linen djellaba is a re-interpretation of the djellaba crossed with a trench coat. It is made from two different textile designs, both dark red with blue pinstripes of different widths. The loose fit and sloping shoulders is characteristic of traditionally Marrakechi djellabas; the lapels and button fastening references both the trench coat and suit jacket styles. Unlike traditional djellabas, it also has external patch-pockets, instead of slits which would usually give access to the pockets of a garment worn underneath.
Bendriouich describes his creations as ‘A uniform for non-conformists’ who do not ‘follow trends of season. AB-CB believes in rock & roll – the music, courage and urban hero’.
This piece comes from Bendriouich’s 2020 Djellaba & Tricks collection which focused on reinterpreting traditional Marrakchi djellabas, with their characteristic large volume and loose fit, for the contemporary moment. The designs introduce new codes from different elements of contemporary design, from the trench coat to the shirt. All the designs were produced in linen or silk, with material sourced from a vintage textile dealer with holdings from textile manufacturer Abraham Ltd, Zurich, best known for producing silk for haute couture clients in the mid-twentieth century. The embroidery was done by artisans in the medina of Marrakesh.
The red linen djellaba is a re-interpretation of the djellaba crossed with a trench coat. It is made from two different textile designs, both dark red with blue pinstripes of different widths. The loose fit and sloping shoulders is characteristic of traditionally Marrakechi djellabas; the lapels and button fastening references both the trench coat and suit jacket styles. Unlike traditional djellabas, it also has external patch-pockets, instead of slits which would usually give access to the pockets of a garment worn underneath.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Title | Djellabas & Tricks (named collection) |
| Brief description | Djellaba, red linen, Djellabas & Tricks collection, designed by Amine Bendriouich, Morcocco, 2020 |
| Physical description | Djellaba, overized in style, almost to the floor, with hood. The djellaba is made from two textiles, used horizontally for half the coat each. Both textiles are dark red with a blue pinstripe, one side has thicker stripes, the other thinner. The djellaba is double breasted with four black buttons, only two of which are meant to close. It has two external patch-pockets. It has sloping shoulders, with a small amount of green embroidery as the shoulder meets with sleeve. |
| Gallery label | Bendriouich describes his creations as ‘a uniform for non-conformists’. His pieces mix cultural references, drawing heavily from Moroccan traditions, but also from across the continent and the world. His work challenges and queries binary identities and what it is to be Moroccan and African. In his 2020 Djellaba & Tricks collection, Bendriouich reinterpreted traditional Marrakchi djellabas. Their characteristic large volume and loose fit are reworked through referencing other classic global styles like the trench coat or the shirt (T.64 & 65-2022). V&A, Room 40, Africa Fashion (02/07/2022 - 16/04/2023) |
| Credit line | Jameel Acquisition |
| Summary | Amine Bendriouich is one of Morocco’s most prominent fashion designers and a key player in the cultural scene in Morocco. Born in Marrakech in the mid-1980s, he studied fashion design at the École supérieure des arts et techniques de la mode (ESMOD), Tunisia, before moving to Casablanca in 2007. He started selling T-shirts at the Boulevard Festival and attracted attention with a satirical design which featured the word hmar (jackass). The following week he was invited to show at FestiMode, Casablanca Fashion Week, and established his label Amine Bendriouich: Couture & Bullshit (AB-CB) shortly after in 2008. Bendriouich often collaborates with other creatives including photographer and designer Hassan Hajjaj and painter Kehinde Wiley. Bendriouich describes his creations as ‘A uniform for non-conformists’ who do not ‘follow trends of season. AB-CB believes in rock & roll – the music, courage and urban hero’. This piece comes from Bendriouich’s 2020 Djellaba & Tricks collection which focused on reinterpreting traditional Marrakchi djellabas, with their characteristic large volume and loose fit, for the contemporary moment. The designs introduce new codes from different elements of contemporary design, from the trench coat to the shirt. All the designs were produced in linen or silk, with material sourced from a vintage textile dealer with holdings from textile manufacturer Abraham Ltd, Zurich, best known for producing silk for haute couture clients in the mid-twentieth century. The embroidery was done by artisans in the medina of Marrakesh. The red linen djellaba is a re-interpretation of the djellaba crossed with a trench coat. It is made from two different textile designs, both dark red with blue pinstripes of different widths. The loose fit and sloping shoulders is characteristic of traditionally Marrakechi djellabas; the lapels and button fastening references both the trench coat and suit jacket styles. Unlike traditional djellabas, it also has external patch-pockets, instead of slits which would usually give access to the pockets of a garment worn underneath. |
| Associated object | |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.64-2022 |
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| Record created | October 29, 2021 |
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