Woman's dress, deep red silk self-patterned with a leaf design, Hong Kong, 1940-1950

Woman's dress (known as a cheongsam in Cantonese or a qipao in Mandarin) made from deep red silk, self-patterned with a design of diagonally-aligned leaves. It closes to the side and has a small, stand-up collar. The long sleeves are cut all in one with the dress and there is no seam across the shoulders. There are underarm gussets and a pocket has been let into the side seam on the left-hand side.
The neck fastens at the front with a decorative loop and knot closure in the form of a leaf and a similar one fastens the dress at collarbone level. The rest of the fastenings are press-studs.
The dress is edged with narrow, bias-cut deep red, plain satin with a double row of binding at the base of the neck. The dress is wadded throughout and lined with light-weight pale orange plain silk.

Right side fastening with two loop and knot buttons. The huaniu at neck and collarbone are fashioned in leave shape. Hidden zip in the side seam, Small stand-up collar. Long and tight sleeves. Slit at sides (c.35cm). Ankle length. Padded (probably with cotton lining.) Yellow cream plain weave silk lining. Red synthetic silk self-patterned with a bamboo design. Hong Kong, 1940-1950
Possibly earlier, late 1930s, very similar to the qipao FE.44.1997.

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Mrs Garrett's card reads: Donated Mr Fung San Yan, Stubbs road

On its own, the qipao is itself a modernised form of the dress worn by Manchu and Han women of the Qing dynasty (1644-1911). During the Republican period (1911-1949), the qipao was promoted as the dress of modern China, identifiably 'Chinese' on the one hand, and moving away from 'feudal' associations with the imperial past.

In its earlier form, the modern qipao was relatively loose and comfortable, a symbol of simplicity and frugality. By the 1940s, under the influence of Western tailoring, the dress had become tailored to be much more form-fitting (and fashionable). The cut of this dress is narrowed at the waist, and a hidden side zip allows the dress to fit the frame more closely. The use of synthetic silk reflects also the modernisation of technology in dress production.

This dress is also padded with a thicker lining, so may have been made to be worn during cooler seasons.

FE.43-1995