Theatre Costume thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Theatre Costume

ca. 1900 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

These false fingernails are part of an authentic Siamese dance costume given to the V&A by Sir Cecil Beaton and now held by the V&A Theatre Collections. The costume was worn by the French dancer Cléo de Mérode. Siamese dance is a highly developed form related to Indian dance, but it was unknown in Europe until the early 20th century. Characteristic features of the costumes are high, almost architectural, headdresses, wide collars and false fingernails. The nails intensify the impact of the hands, which play an important part in Siamese dance. The quality of this costume, especially the gold fabrics, is superb.

De Mérode was a leading dancer of her time, although her professional reputation became overshadowed by her beauty and fashion-setting hairstyle, and her possible liaison with the Belgian King Léopold, uncle to Queen Victoria.

Siamese dance is still relatively unknown in the West compared with Indian dance. Most people only experience it at second hand in Jerome Robbins's 'Small House of Uncle Thomas' ballet in Rodgers and Hammerstein's musical The King and I. Robbins's choreography used the characteristic elements of Siamese dance and theatre, although complete authenticity was out of the question in the context of a Broadway show.

A tunic, breeches and headdress (S.14&A to C-1977) make up this costume.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 10 parts.
(Some alternative part names are also shown below)
  • Theatre Costume
  • Dance Costume
  • Fingernail
  • Theatre Costume
  • Dance Costume
  • Fingernail
  • Theatre Costume
  • Dance Costume
  • Fingernail
  • Theatre Costume
  • Theatre Costume
  • Theatre Costume
  • Theatre Costume
  • Theatre Costume
  • Theatre Costume
  • Theatre Costume
Materials and techniques
Gilt metal
Brief description
False fingernails of gilt metal worn by the dancer Cléo de Merode as part of a Siamese dance costume, ca.1900
Physical description
A set of false fingernails of gilt metal, each fingernail with a metal ring at base to fit over the fingertip, worn by the dancer Cléo de Mérode, ca.1900
Dimensions
  • Part d, length length: 64mm
  • Part d, width width: 18mm
  • Part e, length length: 65mm
  • Part e, width width: 15mm
  • Part f, length length: 64mm
  • Part f, width length: 16mm
  • Part g, length length: 64mm
  • Part g, width width: 15mm
  • Part h, length length: 65mm
  • Part h, width width: 15mm
  • Part i, length length: 65mm
  • Part i, width width: 19mm
  • Part j, length length: 65mm
  • Part j, width width: 18mm
  • Part k, length length: 66mm
  • Part k, width width: 15mm
  • Part l, length length: 65mm
  • Part l, width width: 16mm
  • Part m, length length: 65mm
  • Part m, width width: 17mm
  • Packed weight of parts d to m weight: 0.25kg
Credit line
Given by Sir Cecil Beaton
Object history
The fingernails were worn by the dancer Cléo de Mérode as part of a Siamese dance costume (S.14&A to C-1977). The whole costume was presented to the V&A by Sir Cecil Beaton. It was passed to theTheatre Museum by the Department of Textiles and Dress.
Summary
These false fingernails are part of an authentic Siamese dance costume given to the V&A by Sir Cecil Beaton and now held by the V&A Theatre Collections. The costume was worn by the French dancer Cléo de Mérode. Siamese dance is a highly developed form related to Indian dance, but it was unknown in Europe until the early 20th century. Characteristic features of the costumes are high, almost architectural, headdresses, wide collars and false fingernails. The nails intensify the impact of the hands, which play an important part in Siamese dance. The quality of this costume, especially the gold fabrics, is superb.

De Mérode was a leading dancer of her time, although her professional reputation became overshadowed by her beauty and fashion-setting hairstyle, and her possible liaison with the Belgian King Léopold, uncle to Queen Victoria.

Siamese dance is still relatively unknown in the West compared with Indian dance. Most people only experience it at second hand in Jerome Robbins's 'Small House of Uncle Thomas' ballet in Rodgers and Hammerstein's musical The King and I. Robbins's choreography used the characteristic elements of Siamese dance and theatre, although complete authenticity was out of the question in the context of a Broadway show.

A tunic, breeches and headdress (S.14&A to C-1977) make up this costume.
Associated object
Collection
Accession number
S.14D to M-1977

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Record createdAugust 27, 2008
Record URL
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