Brooch thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Brooch

1984 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

As gold prices rose in the 1970s, jewellers began to look for alternatives to precious metals. Traditionally, they would have turned to base metals, such as bronze, iron and steel. Now, with the continuous search for the 'new', they sought out a wider repertoire of metals and also innovative techniques to create colour through patina. Silver was oxidised, aluminium anodised and painted.

In the space industry experiments with new materials led to the development of metals such as titanium and niobium. Their iridescent colours, achieved through heat or electrical currents, soon attracted the attention of jewellery designers.

Ivy Ross was trained at the Syracuse University, School of Design and the Fashion Institute of Technology, in New York. She has shown in her jewellery the versatility of non-precious materials, such as Colorcore, Formica and Titanium. The style is often graphic or achieves a textile quality, as with this brooch. Some pieces are even designed alongside an item of clothing.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Niobium and oxidised silver
Brief description
Niobium and oxidised silver, USA, 1984; designed and made by Ivy Ross
Physical description
Oxidised silver triangle set with rows of irregularly shaped and overlapping niobium pendants. Straight pin attached to back upper section of triangle.
Dimensions
  • Height: 6.0cm
  • Width: 9.9cm
  • Depth: 1.2cm
Credit line
Given by Ron Longsdorf
Summary
As gold prices rose in the 1970s, jewellers began to look for alternatives to precious metals. Traditionally, they would have turned to base metals, such as bronze, iron and steel. Now, with the continuous search for the 'new', they sought out a wider repertoire of metals and also innovative techniques to create colour through patina. Silver was oxidised, aluminium anodised and painted.

In the space industry experiments with new materials led to the development of metals such as titanium and niobium. Their iridescent colours, achieved through heat or electrical currents, soon attracted the attention of jewellery designers.

Ivy Ross was trained at the Syracuse University, School of Design and the Fashion Institute of Technology, in New York. She has shown in her jewellery the versatility of non-precious materials, such as Colorcore, Formica and Titanium. The style is often graphic or achieves a textile quality, as with this brooch. Some pieces are even designed alongside an item of clothing.
Collection
Accession number
M.27-1991

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Record createdAugust 20, 2008
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