Textile Sample
10/03/1937 (design registered)
| Artist/Maker |
Ankara is a printed cotton cloth, produced in a variety of patterns formed by the layering of polychromatic dyes. Fashionable in West and East Africa since the late 19th century, ankara is variously known as 'African wax' or 'Dutch wax' print – despite wax rarely being used in its manufacture. Embodying the overlapping colonial interests that prevailed in the region and beyond, the cloth has a complex history – rooted in trade monopolisation and cultural appropriation, yet acting as a conduit for African agency and resistance.
Originally produced in the Netherlands, ankara emerged from experiments to mechanically replicate batik, an Indonesian wax-print cloth traditionally developed by hand. Early Dutch attempts roller-printed a resin-resist onto both sides of the cloth before dyeing; the resist was then washed out, with additional layers of colour added by repeating this process, hand-blocking and/or roller-printing. The intended export market of Indonesia did not respond well to this imitation batik, as the resin was prone to cracking and bubbling, producing defects in the print. A keen market for the cloth did, however, emerge across West Africa in the 1890s, such that several factories – chiefly in Britain and the Netherlands – began producing ankara with this new customer in mind. Responding to market feedback on popular colours and patterns, European producers adapted ankara designs to suit the tastes of their discerning West African customers. In a collaboration between the consumer, dealer and manufacturer, local sellers would inform European merchants which styles were in demand and suggest motifs that would likely sell well.
By the early 20th century, a cheaper and more refined method of ankara production had been developed, roller-printing only one side of the cloth with a design, without the use of a resin-resist. Many examples of this later ankara purposefully include the imperfections that originally marred Dutch attempts to replicate batik – alluding to the more esteemed resin-resist technique.
This particular design was likely created to commemorate the 1937 coronation of King George VI, designed for export into West Africa, much of which was colonised by the British Empire.
Originally produced in the Netherlands, ankara emerged from experiments to mechanically replicate batik, an Indonesian wax-print cloth traditionally developed by hand. Early Dutch attempts roller-printed a resin-resist onto both sides of the cloth before dyeing; the resist was then washed out, with additional layers of colour added by repeating this process, hand-blocking and/or roller-printing. The intended export market of Indonesia did not respond well to this imitation batik, as the resin was prone to cracking and bubbling, producing defects in the print. A keen market for the cloth did, however, emerge across West Africa in the 1890s, such that several factories – chiefly in Britain and the Netherlands – began producing ankara with this new customer in mind. Responding to market feedback on popular colours and patterns, European producers adapted ankara designs to suit the tastes of their discerning West African customers. In a collaboration between the consumer, dealer and manufacturer, local sellers would inform European merchants which styles were in demand and suggest motifs that would likely sell well.
By the early 20th century, a cheaper and more refined method of ankara production had been developed, roller-printing only one side of the cloth with a design, without the use of a resin-resist. Many examples of this later ankara purposefully include the imperfections that originally marred Dutch attempts to replicate batik – alluding to the more esteemed resin-resist technique.
This particular design was likely created to commemorate the 1937 coronation of King George VI, designed for export into West Africa, much of which was colonised by the British Empire.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | cotton, printing |
| Brief description | Textile sample, cotton fabric, manufactured by Joseph Bridge & Co. Ltd., Manchester, England, 1937. |
| Physical description | Batik style cotton printed fabric, with crown motifs and royal family portraits of King George VI, Queen consort Elizabeth Angela Marguerite Bowes-Lyon, and their daughters Princess Margaret and Princess Elizabeth, the future Queen Elizabeth II. With red and yellow floral pattern on white and blue chevron patterned ground |
| Marks and inscriptions | Portraits and crown devices
disclaimed (text taken from manufacturers note affixed to textile ) |
| Credit line | Given by the Public Record Office |
| Object history | This numbered fabric sample comes from a large group of designs that were registered individually by manufacturers between 1914 and 1946 at the Manchester Design Registry. The collection was given to the V&A by the Public Record Office in 1960 after the closure of the Manchester Design Registry. Samples have been formally accessioned by the V&A gradually since 1966. The remaining textiles were formally acquired in 2021. The Manchester Design Registry textiles are duplicates of samples held in the Board of Trade Design Register at The National Archives, and by consulting the registration details there, it has been possible to date and identify the manufacturers of these designs. |
| Production | Joseph Bridge & Co. Ltd. is one of several companies - principally British or Dutch - who in the early 20th century designed, printed, exported and/or distributed factory-printed cotton textiles for the West African market. The company began life in the 19th century, acting as cotton manufacturers and merchants, weaving and printing their goods. From the 1920s to the 1960s, the company produced woven and printed textiles for the West African market. |
| Summary | Ankara is a printed cotton cloth, produced in a variety of patterns formed by the layering of polychromatic dyes. Fashionable in West and East Africa since the late 19th century, ankara is variously known as 'African wax' or 'Dutch wax' print – despite wax rarely being used in its manufacture. Embodying the overlapping colonial interests that prevailed in the region and beyond, the cloth has a complex history – rooted in trade monopolisation and cultural appropriation, yet acting as a conduit for African agency and resistance. Originally produced in the Netherlands, ankara emerged from experiments to mechanically replicate batik, an Indonesian wax-print cloth traditionally developed by hand. Early Dutch attempts roller-printed a resin-resist onto both sides of the cloth before dyeing; the resist was then washed out, with additional layers of colour added by repeating this process, hand-blocking and/or roller-printing. The intended export market of Indonesia did not respond well to this imitation batik, as the resin was prone to cracking and bubbling, producing defects in the print. A keen market for the cloth did, however, emerge across West Africa in the 1890s, such that several factories – chiefly in Britain and the Netherlands – began producing ankara with this new customer in mind. Responding to market feedback on popular colours and patterns, European producers adapted ankara designs to suit the tastes of their discerning West African customers. In a collaboration between the consumer, dealer and manufacturer, local sellers would inform European merchants which styles were in demand and suggest motifs that would likely sell well. By the early 20th century, a cheaper and more refined method of ankara production had been developed, roller-printing only one side of the cloth with a design, without the use of a resin-resist. Many examples of this later ankara purposefully include the imperfections that originally marred Dutch attempts to replicate batik – alluding to the more esteemed resin-resist technique. This particular design was likely created to commemorate the 1937 coronation of King George VI, designed for export into West Africa, much of which was colonised by the British Empire. |
| Bibliographic reference | Board of Trade Design Register: BT53/125 |
| Other number | 371493 - patent number |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.1891-2021 |
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| Record created | September 9, 2021 |
| Record URL |
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