Ensemble thumbnail 1
Ensemble thumbnail 2
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
Not currently on display at the V&A
On short term loan out for exhibition

This object consists of 7 parts, some of which may be located elsewhere.

Ensemble

Ensemble
2020 (produced)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Unisex fashion brand Nao Serati was founded in 2014 by the South African designer Neo Serati Mofammere, a graduate of LISOF School of Fashion (now STADIO School of Fashion). Based in Johannesburg, the brand seeks to draw on its South African heritage, whilst subverting gendered codes of dressing. Presented on a cast of male models, Nao Serati collections are defined by their rich design elements more typically associated with womenswear, such as iridescence and shine - through the use of Lurex, sequins, or PVC - as well as corset-style lacing, jumpsuits, and the colour pink, rendered in luscious materials such as silk and velvet. Silhouettes and styling are inspired by South African youth culture and sportswear.

This ensemble is a one-off creation, exhibiting Nao Serati’s inclination towards bold, gender-fluid tailoring with eye-catching textures. Here, pieces from a man’s working wardrobe are subverted; the standard collared shirt and tie are rendered in glossy silver, and paired with exuberant flared trousers and jacket, both fabricated in a glittering material of pink and aqua – a colour scheme intentionally chosen to celebrate gender-fluidity, mixing the masculine and feminine. The jacket is tied purposefully at the waist forming a peplum, a design feature usually reserved for womenswear. The ensemble is styled with a bucket hat, a 1990s fashion reference that saw a revival in the 2020s.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 7 parts.

  • Jacket
  • Trousers
  • Shirt
  • Tie
  • Hat
  • Boot
  • Boot
TitleEnsemble
Materials and techniques
Leather, lurex, synthetic textile
Brief description
Ensemble, synthetic textile, lurex, leather, metal, plastic, Nao Serati, South Africa, 2020
Physical description
Ensemble consisting of a trouser suit, shirt, tie, boots and hat. The shirt and tie are composed of a silver material; the trousers, jacket and hat are cut from lurex, in a pink and blue two-toned colourway. The jacket is belted, with an exagerated peplum, short-sleeves, and wide notched lapel. The trousers are generously flared, with a fly front and pressed front creases. The boots are of deep purple leather, mid-calf height with a high block heel, square toe and side zip.
Dimensions
  • Headband measured inside hat circumference: 54.5cm (Maximum)
  • From top of crown to brim height: 14.5cm (Maximum)
  • Measured side to side diameter: 23cm (Maximum)
  • Shoe height: 31.5cm (Maximum)
  • Shoe length: 24cm (Mxaimum) (Note: Size 38)
  • Shoe width: 8.5cm (Maximum)
  • Shoe heel height: 7.5cm (Maximum)
  • Trousers length: 116.5cm (Maximum)
  • Trousers waist circumference: 69cm (Maximum)
  • Trousers hips circumference: 98cm (Maximum)
  • Trousers flared hem circumference: 130cm (Maximum)
  • Jacket nape to hem length: 69cm (Maximum)
  • Jacket across back width: 49cm (Approx)
  • Jacket sleeve length: 26cm (Maximum)
  • Jacket chest circumference: 100cm (Approx.)
  • Shirt chest circumference: 102cm (Maximum)
  • Shirt nape to hem length: 78cm (Maximum)
  • Shirt sleeve length: 67cm (Maximum)
Measured by conservation
Gallery label
‘Imagine a South Africa where you could wear a short skirt, sheer tops and dress African men in pink!’ Mofammere declares. His designs reflect this sense of joy and hopefulness for a brighter future. The iridescent fabric is fundamental to the design of this ensemble. The two colours, pink and blue, feminine and masculine, blend together in a celebration of gender fluidity and self-love. ‘Nao Serati is my ‘Sasha Fierce’. She is the girl with the platinum blonde hair and platform heels putting everyone’s joy at the centre of it all.’ — Neo Serati Mofammere, 2021 V&A, Room 40, Africa Fashion (02/07/2022 - 16/04/2023)
Credit line
Purchased with funds from the Sue Smith bequest
Summary
Unisex fashion brand Nao Serati was founded in 2014 by the South African designer Neo Serati Mofammere, a graduate of LISOF School of Fashion (now STADIO School of Fashion). Based in Johannesburg, the brand seeks to draw on its South African heritage, whilst subverting gendered codes of dressing. Presented on a cast of male models, Nao Serati collections are defined by their rich design elements more typically associated with womenswear, such as iridescence and shine - through the use of Lurex, sequins, or PVC - as well as corset-style lacing, jumpsuits, and the colour pink, rendered in luscious materials such as silk and velvet. Silhouettes and styling are inspired by South African youth culture and sportswear.

This ensemble is a one-off creation, exhibiting Nao Serati’s inclination towards bold, gender-fluid tailoring with eye-catching textures. Here, pieces from a man’s working wardrobe are subverted; the standard collared shirt and tie are rendered in glossy silver, and paired with exuberant flared trousers and jacket, both fabricated in a glittering material of pink and aqua – a colour scheme intentionally chosen to celebrate gender-fluidity, mixing the masculine and feminine. The jacket is tied purposefully at the waist forming a peplum, a design feature usually reserved for womenswear. The ensemble is styled with a bucket hat, a 1990s fashion reference that saw a revival in the 2020s.
Collection
Accession number
T.20-2022

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Record createdAugust 2, 2021
Record URL
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