The white on white embroidery known as chikan was done on fine muslin. Although this piece is quite simply embroidered, other pieces use a wider range of more complex stitches. In Bengal, chikan was probably developed for the European market and some designs may have been European inspired. The flimsy material suited fashionable Regency dress styles, but was still popular among Europeans in the late 19th century, probably on account of the climate. Production later moved to Lucknow where it was very popular at the local court. The coarser modern chikan work is now made mainly for Middle Eastern and home markets. The designs are first printed onto the fabric, usually fine white muslin, with wooden or brass blocks using fugitive colours. The designs are then embroidered with untwisted cotton thread. Sometimes Bengali tussur silk was also used for variation of colour. By tradition, there is a particular discipline as to the type and method of application of the embroidery stitches relating to the fabrics and design used. Between thirty and forty different types of stitch, including pulled-thread work or jali (a pierced latticework window), can be used, with some stitches reserved for specialist embroiderers. Some chikan patterns are similar to the woven jamdani cotton of Dacca, and may have been developed as an embroidered equivalent to them.