Cloth thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
Not currently on display at the V&A
On short term loan out for exhibition

Cloth

early 1990s (designed and made)
Place of origin

Factory-produced, imitation wax-resist print fabrics, known as ‘fancy fabrics’ or ‘fancy prints’, were first introduced into Africa from Europe in the 1920s and 1930s. These cotton cloths typically combine photographic elements, large blocks of colour and geometric patterning. Commemorative cloths like the Mandela design sit within this genre. They are specially produced in very large quantities to celebrate and document significant personal, local, national and international events.

Numerous commemorative cloths featuring a portrait of Nelson Mandela, (1918-2013), co-organizer of the African National Congress (ANC) Youth League and democratic South Africa’s first Black president. These have been produced in Africa, Europe and, more recently, in China.This particular Mandela cloth was first manufactured in the early 1990s following his release and continues to be popular today. Mandela’s presidency ran from 10 May 1994 to 16 June 1999.

The cloth was made in the early 1990s and purchased at an anti-apartheid fundraising event held at Camden Town Hall, London. Such fundraising events were not unusual. Across Britain, from the mid-1980s to the fall of the apartheid system in 1994, grass roots and left-of-centre organisations campaigned for South Africa’s return to Black majority rule.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Printed cotton
Brief description
Commemorative cloth, Mandela photograph, silkscreen printed cotton, manufactured by Nkosi Traditional Fabrics CC, Akasia, South Africa, early 1990s
Physical description
Rectangular cloth, screenprinted with multicoloured design. Mandela’s portrait in is the centre, flanked by the ANC logo of a shield with a right hand holding the party’s flag flying from a spear, and pairs of large and small wheels.Narrow bands of black, green and yellow from the ANC flag appear above a repeat pattern of wheels that symbolize industry and political progress. Beneath the wheels, floating on a green ground with an imitation batik crackle-effect, a series of ANC slogans are displayed in capital letters: ‘A BETTER LIFE FOR ALL · WORKING TOEGTHER FOR JOBS, PEACE AND FREEDOM’. The wide bottom border incorporates the manufacturer’s symbol on the lower selvedge.

Dimensions
  • Height: 114cm (Maximum) (Note: Measured by conservation)
  • Width: 158cm (Maximum) (Note: Measured by conservation)
Production typeMass produced
Gallery label
As African nations achieved independence, commemorative cloths with photographs of political leaders and messages of protest and celebration were rapidly produced. Commissioned by political agents as tools of propaganda and celebration, these cloths were cheap to make and accessible to a wide audience. They were sold across the continent and the diaspora. Building on the established tradition of wearing printed commemorative cloth, they served as highly visible expressions of shared identity, ideals and concerns. V&A, Room 40, Africa Fashion (2/7/2022 - 16/04/2023)
Credit line
Given by Christine Checinska
Summary
Factory-produced, imitation wax-resist print fabrics, known as ‘fancy fabrics’ or ‘fancy prints’, were first introduced into Africa from Europe in the 1920s and 1930s. These cotton cloths typically combine photographic elements, large blocks of colour and geometric patterning. Commemorative cloths like the Mandela design sit within this genre. They are specially produced in very large quantities to celebrate and document significant personal, local, national and international events.

Numerous commemorative cloths featuring a portrait of Nelson Mandela, (1918-2013), co-organizer of the African National Congress (ANC) Youth League and democratic South Africa’s first Black president. These have been produced in Africa, Europe and, more recently, in China.This particular Mandela cloth was first manufactured in the early 1990s following his release and continues to be popular today. Mandela’s presidency ran from 10 May 1994 to 16 June 1999.

The cloth was made in the early 1990s and purchased at an anti-apartheid fundraising event held at Camden Town Hall, London. Such fundraising events were not unusual. Across Britain, from the mid-1980s to the fall of the apartheid system in 1994, grass roots and left-of-centre organisations campaigned for South Africa’s return to Black majority rule.
Collection
Accession number
T.2430-2021

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Record createdMay 13, 2021
Record URL
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