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On loan
  • On short term loan out for exhibition

Apropriyeyshin Dress

Dress
2016 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Laduma Ngxokolo founded South African knitwear brand MAXHOSA AFRICA in 2012. Ngxokolo became interested in fashion design as a teenager when his mother, also a designer, bought a knitting machine for the home. Ngxokolo remarks this move ‘changed my direction in life forever’.
MAXHOSA AFRICA has a strong visual identity, known for its bold and colourful geometric knits, whose patterns reference Xhosa beadwork.

The Apropriyeyshin dress is part of the 2017 Spring/ Summer collection, and was one of the first dresses to be made by Ngxokolo. With this collection Ngxokolo wanted to address cultural appropriation, but from a positive angle, recognising the way fashion can be used to celebrate different cultures and material traditions. For the collection he combined his staple Xhosa inspired patterns with traditionally western silhouettes, in this instance a form-fitted knitted maxi dress. Ngxokolo recongises that in wearing his Xhosa inspired clothes there is appropriation of sorts, yet he insists that there is a “way the people of that culture feel empowered by this form of expression”, by ensuring the recognition of Xhosa heritage within the collection.

Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleApropriyeyshin Dress (named collection)
Materials and techniques
Knitted wool, synthetic tassels
Brief description
Dress, multicoloured knitted wool, Apropriyeyshin collection, designed by Laduma Ngxokolo for Maxhosa AFRICA, Johannesburg, South Africa, Spring/Summer 2017
Physical description
Floor length, long-sleeved, blue silk dress, with multi-colour tussles attached.
Dimensions
  • Shoulder to hem length: 1320mm (Minimum) (Note: Measured flat)
  • Waist measured flat and unstretched circumference: 740mm (Minimum )
  • Bust measured flat and unstretched circumference: 840mm (Minimum)
  • Hips measured flat and unstretched circumference: 1040mm (Minimum)
  • Nape to waist measured flat and unstretched length: 400mm (Minimum)
  • Sleeve length: 610mm (Maximum)
Measured by conservation
Gallery label
(02/07/2022 - 16/04/2023)
MAXHOSA AFRICA has a strong visual identity, known for its bold and colourful geometric knits. Its designs reference beadwork by the Xhosa, a group primarily from southern Africa. The ‘Tussles’ dress is from his Apropriyeyshin collection. Here Ngxokolo, Xhosa himself, wrestles with the complexities of cultural appropriation, recognising the way fashion can celebrate rather than exploit different cultures and material traditions. He combined his staple Xhosa-inspired patterns with European and American silhouettes, in this instance a form-fitting, knitted maxi dress. (T.2431 & 2432-2021) V&A, Room 40, Africa Fashion
Credit line
Donated by MAXHOSA AFRICA
Object history
This dress was designed by Laduma Ngxokolo for his Spring/Summer 2017 collection, entitled Apropiyeyshin.
Subject depicted
Associations
Summary
Laduma Ngxokolo founded South African knitwear brand MAXHOSA AFRICA in 2012. Ngxokolo became interested in fashion design as a teenager when his mother, also a designer, bought a knitting machine for the home. Ngxokolo remarks this move ‘changed my direction in life forever’.
MAXHOSA AFRICA has a strong visual identity, known for its bold and colourful geometric knits, whose patterns reference Xhosa beadwork.

The Apropriyeyshin dress is part of the 2017 Spring/ Summer collection, and was one of the first dresses to be made by Ngxokolo. With this collection Ngxokolo wanted to address cultural appropriation, but from a positive angle, recognising the way fashion can be used to celebrate different cultures and material traditions. For the collection he combined his staple Xhosa inspired patterns with traditionally western silhouettes, in this instance a form-fitted knitted maxi dress. Ngxokolo recongises that in wearing his Xhosa inspired clothes there is appropriation of sorts, yet he insists that there is a “way the people of that culture feel empowered by this form of expression”, by ensuring the recognition of Xhosa heritage within the collection.
Collection
Accession number
T.2431-2021

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Record createdMay 9, 2021
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