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On loan
  • On short term loan out for exhibition

Ensemble

September 2018 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

NKWO works with small-scale artisan makers across the African continent that specialise in hand crafts such as hand dyeing, weaving, beading and embroidery.

The blue and white colour palette of this outfit is typical of NKWO’s aesthetic. The coat and bra top of this outfit are made from NKWO’s signature Dakala cloth, a fabric developed in the NKWO studio as a way to re-use fabric offcuts. The technique is inspired by strip weaving and involves a process of stripping and sewing together sections of waste fabric derived from, for instance, discarded denim garments or cutting table waste. NKWO’s Dakala cloth was nominated for the Fashion category of the Beazley Designs of the Year 2020. The coat is embellished with flax fringing and recycled mirror beading. It was made in Abuja, Nigeria. As well as the Dakala cloth, NKWO tends to use traditional fabrics in natural fibres such as cotton made in Nigeria and applies these to unconventional and contemporary shapes and styles, or reworked traditional silhouettes.
The outfit is from the Spring/Summer 2019 collection, shown at Lagos Fashion Week in November 2018 and consists of a coat, a bra top, a skirt and a gele. The collection, titled ‘WHO KNEW’, was inspired by the stories of displaced peoples and victims of human trafficking. Each model wore a headpiece or gele created from a distinctive checked woven nylon tote bag, also known as ‘Ghana-must-go’ bags in much of West Africa, which stood to represent how people had carried all their possessions in these bags, or on their heads, when leaving their homes. This ensemble was modelled on the catwalk by well-known fashion stylist, retailer and entrepreneur Ezinne Chinkata.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 6 parts.

  • Coat
  • Bra
  • Skirt
  • Gele
  • Shoe
  • Shoe
Materials and techniques
Denim, acetate (lining), flax, glass, plastic, cotton,
Brief description
Ensemble, Dakala cloth coat, bra top, skirt and gele, 'WHO KNEW' collection, designed by Nkwo Onwuka for NKWO, Abuja, Nigeria, Spring/Summer 2019 collection, made in 2018
Physical description
The coat and bra top of this outfit are made from NKWO’s signature Dakala cloth, a fabric developed in the NKWO studio as a way to re-use fabric offcuts. The technique is inspired by strip weaving and involves a process of stripping and sewing together sections of waste fabric derived from, for instance, discarded denim garments or cutting table waste.
Dimensions
  • Gele width: 43cm (Maximum) (Note: Measured by conservation)
  • Gele depth: 23cm (Maximum) (Note: Measured by conservation)
  • Gele height: 32cm (Maximum) (Note: Measured by conservation)
  • Bra tied closed circumference: 72cm (Minimum) (Note: Measured by conservation)
  • Max. length from top of waistband to hem length: 82cm (Maximum) (Note: Measured by conservation)
  • Skirt waistband unstretched (elasticated) circumference: 58cm (Minimum) (Note: Measured by conservation)
  • Coat top of shoulder to hem length: 111cm (21/05/2021) (Note: Measured by conservation)
  • Coat measured closed around waist hips bust circumference: 114cm (Maximum) (Note: Measured by conservation)
Production typesmall batch
Gallery label
(02/07/2022 - 16/04/2023)
NKWO works with small-scale artisan makers across the African continent that specialise in hand crafts like dyeing, weaving, beading and embroidery. Onwuka explores ways of using waste materials in her designs while still preserving traditional textile craft skills. This led to her invention of DAKALA CLOTH, made from waste fabric which is stripped and then sewn back together with a technique that gives the appearance of traditional woven cloth. V&A, Room 40, Africa Fashion
Credit line
Purchased with funds from the Sue Smith bequest
Production
Made in September 2018 for Spring/Summer 2019 collection
Summary
NKWO works with small-scale artisan makers across the African continent that specialise in hand crafts such as hand dyeing, weaving, beading and embroidery.

The blue and white colour palette of this outfit is typical of NKWO’s aesthetic. The coat and bra top of this outfit are made from NKWO’s signature Dakala cloth, a fabric developed in the NKWO studio as a way to re-use fabric offcuts. The technique is inspired by strip weaving and involves a process of stripping and sewing together sections of waste fabric derived from, for instance, discarded denim garments or cutting table waste. NKWO’s Dakala cloth was nominated for the Fashion category of the Beazley Designs of the Year 2020. The coat is embellished with flax fringing and recycled mirror beading. It was made in Abuja, Nigeria. As well as the Dakala cloth, NKWO tends to use traditional fabrics in natural fibres such as cotton made in Nigeria and applies these to unconventional and contemporary shapes and styles, or reworked traditional silhouettes.
The outfit is from the Spring/Summer 2019 collection, shown at Lagos Fashion Week in November 2018 and consists of a coat, a bra top, a skirt and a gele. The collection, titled ‘WHO KNEW’, was inspired by the stories of displaced peoples and victims of human trafficking. Each model wore a headpiece or gele created from a distinctive checked woven nylon tote bag, also known as ‘Ghana-must-go’ bags in much of West Africa, which stood to represent how people had carried all their possessions in these bags, or on their heads, when leaving their homes. This ensemble was modelled on the catwalk by well-known fashion stylist, retailer and entrepreneur Ezinne Chinkata.
Collection
Accession number
T.115:1to4-2021

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Record createdMarch 26, 2021
Record URL
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