The polyester jewellery made by Mariko Kusumoto combines lyrical imagery with innovative practice, resulting in work of rare delicacy and mystery. Known initially for her work in metals, she has written of the hours of experimentation that underpin her mastery of polyester fabric, and of the sense of wonder that she aims for in her work: ‘During the experimental process there is sometimes a breathtaking moment; I catch those moments and develop ideas from that point’. This necklace, capturing the subtle colours and translucent harmonies of marine life has an arresting appeal and speaks to Kusumoto’s hope that ‘the viewer experiences discovery, surprise, and wonder through my work’.

Mariko Kusumoto (born Japan, 1967) trained initially as a fine artist and printmaker in Tokyo and San Francisco. A fascination with the metal plates for printing led her towards jewellery, initially working in metals but from around 2013 experimenting with polyester fabric. Based in America, her work is in the collections of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston; the Museum of Arts and Design, New York; and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. In Europe her work is represented in the Koch Collection at the Swiss National Museum, Zurich; and in the collection of Jean Paul Gaultier with whom she collaborated on his haute couture collection Spring/Summer 2019.