Evening Trouser Suit and Blouse thumbnail 1
Evening Trouser Suit and Blouse thumbnail 2
+5
images
Not on display

Evening Trouser Suit and Blouse

1937-1938 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Chanel is famous for her suits and chic day wear; perhaps less well known are her glamorous evening ensembles. This sophisticated and striking evening ensemble consists of a short, tailored bolero jacket and loose, straight trousers, both entirely covered with vertical rows of overlapping sequins. It was worn with a delicate lace and chiffon blouse which fastens with pearl buttons.

In adopting the trouser suit Chanel anticipated the direction that fashion would take in the 1960s and 1970s towards an androgynous look. However, the masculine lines of this outfit are tempered by the luxurious finish. Chanel said ‘Much seriousness is required to achieve the frivolous.’

The outfit was worn by Diana Vreeland with a black ribbon around her neck into which she tucked a red rose. Diana worked for Harper's Bazaar for 27 years and became associate editor of Vogue magazine in January 1963. She soon became editor-in-chief and remained with Vogue until 1971. Her colleagues admired her originality and commitment to fashion. On leaving Vogue, she became adviser to the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Delve deeper

Discover more about this object
watch Fashion Unpicked: CHANEL sequin trouser suit worn by Diana Vreeland Join dressmaking expert Sue Clark as she examines a luxurious, sparkly CHANEL trouser suit, made in 1937 – 38 for American Fashion Magazine Editor, Diana Vreeland.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 3 parts.

  • Jacket
  • Trousers
  • Blouse
Materials and techniques
Net applied with sequins and lined with silk chiffon, and silk chiffon trimmed with lace and with mother-of-pearl
Brief description
Evening trouser suit of net applied with sequins and with a silk chiffon blouse trimmed with lace, designed by Coco Chanel, France, 1937-1938
Physical description
Evening trouser suit of black net applied with black sequins and lined with silk chiffon. Worn with a silk chiffon blouse trimmed with lace and fastened with mother-of-pearl buttons.
Dimensions
  • Height: 1600mm (Note: Display footprint)
  • Width: 550mm (Note: Display footprint)
  • Depth: 450 (Note: Display footprint)
Production typeHaute couture
Gallery label
(16/09/2023)
[Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto exhibition, September 2023 - March 2024]

TROUSER SUIT

‘I loved my clothes from Chanel,’ recalled loyal client Diana Vreeland. The fashion editor wore this sequinned trouser suit for entertaining at home. The lightest of tulle grounds supports the embroidered sequins, adhering to Chanel’s principle that chic clothes should also be comfortable. Although the couturier advocated trousers for casual and sportswear, this is an early suit design with trousers: they did not feature regularly in her collections until the 1960s.

1937–38
Silk tulle, sequins, chiffon and lace
V&A: T.88&A, B- 1974
Given by Mrs Diana Vreeland
Credit line
Given by Mrs Diana Vreeland
Object history
This trouser suit was worn by Diana Vreeland.
Association
Summary
Chanel is famous for her suits and chic day wear; perhaps less well known are her glamorous evening ensembles. This sophisticated and striking evening ensemble consists of a short, tailored bolero jacket and loose, straight trousers, both entirely covered with vertical rows of overlapping sequins. It was worn with a delicate lace and chiffon blouse which fastens with pearl buttons.

In adopting the trouser suit Chanel anticipated the direction that fashion would take in the 1960s and 1970s towards an androgynous look. However, the masculine lines of this outfit are tempered by the luxurious finish. Chanel said ‘Much seriousness is required to achieve the frivolous.’

The outfit was worn by Diana Vreeland with a black ribbon around her neck into which she tucked a red rose. Diana worked for Harper's Bazaar for 27 years and became associate editor of Vogue magazine in January 1963. She soon became editor-in-chief and remained with Vogue until 1971. Her colleagues admired her originality and commitment to fashion. On leaving Vogue, she became adviser to the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Bibliographic references
  • Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton. London : H.M.S.O., 1971 50
  • Cullen, Oriole and Karol Burks, Connie. "Gabrielle Chanel". London: V&A Publishing, 2023 p 183 Fashion editor Diana Vreeland was a loyal Chanel client. She wore this sequinned trouser suit for entertaining at home in the winter of 1937–8. Reports on the Paris collections noted that it was a season of ‘gorgeous evening styles…with sequins and jewelled embroidery’. The lightest of tulle grounds supports the embroidered sequins of this ensemble so that the unstructured suit with bolero jacket and fl owing pleat-front trousers adheres to Chanel’s diktat of clothes being comfortable while also chic. She provided an intriguing contrast by pairing the hard shiny glamour of the suit with a light ethereal frill-neck blouse. Although the couturière advocated trousers for casual wear and sportswear, this outfit is something of an anomaly as trousers did not feature regularly in her collections until the 1960s. In later life Vreeland wrote fondly of her Chanel clothes from this period.
Collection
Accession number
T.88 to B-1974

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdDecember 15, 1999
Record URL
Download as: JSON