Paul Poiret was famous for his use of opulent colour. You can see it displayed to the full in this emerald green, purple and gold opera cloak. His brilliantly coloured, looser clothes were often inspired by his interest in non-European fashions and traditions. The main part of this ankle-length garment is cut from a single piece of finely ribbed silk. It is turned back at the centre front to create deep revers. The hem dips steeply down to side points. It is weighted by an extremely heavy, deep gilt fringe of metallic sprung coils, as used in military dress uniforms.

Paul Poiret was born in Paris in 1879. He opened his own salon after serving an apprenticeship for Douçet and working for Charles Frederick Worth. Poiret was one of the most creative fashion designers of the 20th century. He also revived fashion illustration, founded a school for the decorative arts and even diversified into perfume. He led the artistic fashion movement away from the curvilinear silhouette of the early 1900s towards a longer, leaner line.

Lady Gladwyn wore this cloak, which forms part of the V&A's Cecil Beaton Collection. Sir Cecil Beaton was a society photographer. With great energy and determination Beaton contacted the well-dressed élite of Europe and North America to help create this monument to the art of dress. The Collection was exhibited in 1971, accompanied by a catalogue that detailed its enormous range.