Not currently on display at the V&A

Head Scarf

1800-1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Resist dyed and printed plain weave cotton embroidered with metal thread in chain stitch or tambour work backed with a resist dyed and printed plain weave cotton, faced with plain weave silk, with two silk and metal thread ties.
This triangular scarf has been cut from a 19th century large, square Ottoman Turkish printed handkerchief, because of the colour of the ground, this handkerchief might possibly be the the sort associated with snuff-taking.

The main fabric is a fine cotton printed with a narrow border down two sides showing a landscape of small houses among trees in between pink/mauve lobed lozenges: blue, green, white and pink predominate. The field is olive brown and is decorated with lines of interlocking incomplete ovoids forming a highly ornate 'chain' with pendant fruits and leaves in predominantly blue-green, yellow, pink, orange and grey. All the outlines of this pattern and the borders have been embellished with metal thread embroidered in chain stitch or tambour. In one corner there is part of a different pattern: it has a white ground with an incomplete floral pattern in pinks, yellow and light blue.
The ties are striped silk with red alternating with a wide band of metal thread 0- tarnished silver wound around yellow silk. The weft is red silk. The stripes are separated by a narrow stripe of white and blue in a twill pattern.
Metal Thread: silver strip close Z-wound on white silk core; along the edges of the border the metal thread is close Z-wound on a yellow silk core.

Backing: pieced; purple ground with a small tri-sprigged stem in green, white and red arranged in offset rows.
Facing: bias cut; orange/yellow silk

Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
cotton yarn, silk thread, metal thread, weaving, printing, embroidering, sewing
Brief description
Embroidered head scarf, 1800-1870, Persian.
Physical description
Resist dyed and printed plain weave cotton embroidered with metal thread in chain stitch or tambour work backed with a resist dyed and printed plain weave cotton, faced with plain weave silk, with two silk and metal thread ties.
This triangular scarf has been cut from a 19th century large, square Ottoman Turkish printed handkerchief, because of the colour of the ground, this handkerchief might possibly be the the sort associated with snuff-taking.

The main fabric is a fine cotton printed with a narrow border down two sides showing a landscape of small houses among trees in between pink/mauve lobed lozenges: blue, green, white and pink predominate. The field is olive brown and is decorated with lines of interlocking incomplete ovoids forming a highly ornate 'chain' with pendant fruits and leaves in predominantly blue-green, yellow, pink, orange and grey. All the outlines of this pattern and the borders have been embellished with metal thread embroidered in chain stitch or tambour. In one corner there is part of a different pattern: it has a white ground with an incomplete floral pattern in pinks, yellow and light blue.
The ties are striped silk with red alternating with a wide band of metal thread 0- tarnished silver wound around yellow silk. The weft is red silk. The stripes are separated by a narrow stripe of white and blue in a twill pattern.
Metal Thread: silver strip close Z-wound on white silk core; along the edges of the border the metal thread is close Z-wound on a yellow silk core.

Backing: pieced; purple ground with a small tri-sprigged stem in green, white and red arranged in offset rows.
Facing: bias cut; orange/yellow silk
Dimensions
  • Maximum length: 46cm
  • Maximum width: 95cm
shape: triangular
Production
The printed textile is Ottoman Turkish
Association
Bibliographic reference
the backing was published as Plate 10 in Jennifer Wearden's Persian Printed Cottons, Webb & Bower in association with the V&A, 1989.
Collection
Accession number
80-1877

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Record createdJune 18, 2008
Record URL
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