skull cap, plain weave cotton embroidered with couched metal threads, silk in straight stitches, lined with plain weave silk and trimmed with silk cord.
The orange cotton forms a wide band attached to a large roundel for the crown. The ground is totally covered with couched metal thread, except where the two pieces of cotton join where it is less densely embroidered. The roundel is divided into four triangles by a crisscross band of silver-gilt metal thread laid out in a squared format but with dark blue in one band couching stitches to form lozenge outlines and red stitching on the other [A]. The resulting triangular spaces are again filled with rows of metal thread with a small central floral motif in blue, green, red [faded to pink] straight stitches outlined with metal thread couched in loops.
The seam between the roundel and the band is emphasized by rows and loops of metal thread, delineated by dark blue couching forming triangles. More of the orange ground can be seen and this is complemented with a row of copper metal thread.
The main wide band is again totally covered with metal thread arranged as a zigzag containing small cross forms in green and botehs in two shades of blue, faded red and green. The apparent colour change of various triangles is effected by the colour of the couching thread, variously orange, cream, white and beige.
The cap edge is decorated with a repeat of [A] from the roundel, but with dark blue thread. The final edge si decorated with black silk cord held in place with silver thread forming small lozenge patterns.
Metal Threads: [1] silver-gilt strip close S-wound on beige silk; [2] silver strip close S-wound on white silk; [3] copper strip close S-wound on orange silk.
Lining: red silk, through which the embroidery has been worked.