Fabrics woven or embroidered specifically to be made into waistcoats were common in the 18th century, and known as ‘waistcoat shapes’. In this example, the narrow length of silk has been brocaded with coloured silks and silver-gilt thread in the shape of two waistcoat fronts and two pocket flaps. Such a fabric would have been purchased at the silk mercer’s or haberdasher’s shop and taken to a tailor to be cut out and made into a waistcoat. The backs of 18th century waistcoats were usually a plain wool or linen, and with very careful cutting and piecing of the brocaded silk, a splendid waistcoat could be fashioned.

The regular arrangement of the floral design here suggests the influence of Neo-Classicism. However the skirt of the waistcoat, fairly deep for 1780, indicates that it was worn for quite a formal occasion and is therefore conservative in style.