Wilhelm costume design thumbnail 1
Not on display

Wilhelm costume design

Costume Design
1916 (drawn)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Wilhelm designed many productions for Adeline Genée, star dancer at the Empire Theatre music hall in the 1890s and early 1900s. Among his last work for her was the ballet The Pretty Prentice, the purpose of which was to show Genée as a mischievous shop girl in as many different moods as possible. This extraordinary creation which he entitled Eccentric Dress is the ultimate Edwardian dance dress, blending imagination and character. A fun dress for a fun character. The stylised feathers on the skirt, to be executed in coloured fabrics, silver and sequins, complement the ostrich feather headdress, while the sequinned bodice with its enveloping snake, contrasts with the silver and rhinestones and the stiff, pleated 'epaulettes' on the shoulders. The silver pantaloons add a delicious touch of naughtiness, so characteristic of the lost Edwardian period.

Wilhelm worked in the prevailing style of late 19th century realism, but with an imagination and flair and knowledge of his subject that made him outstanding. What makes this design extraordinary is the definition and precision of the drawing, and how Wilhem conveys in paint the final effect of the costume - whether a flower or sparkling sequin snake; he suggests the fabrics, the density of velvet, the sparkle of sequin, the soft floating of silk. It was his knowledge of the techniques of stage costume making, and how to use materials, that made Wilhelm supreme among stage designers.

Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleWilhelm costume design (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Pen and ink, watercolour, gouache, silver paint on board
Brief description
Costume design by Wilhelm for Adeline Genée as Patty in the ballet The Pretty Prentice, London Coliseum, 1916. Pen and ink, watercolour, gouache, silver paint.
Physical description
Full length female figure, wearing fanciful feather costume, daintily holding out the skirt.. On the head to the back different coloured ostrich plumes, fixed to a black headdress with a large upcurving black 'plume' at the centre front, with central multicoloured spine. Blonde ringlets surround the face. The bodice of the dress has short slit sleeves and one side in silver, the lower left front black, painted to suggest sequins; outlining this panel , looping round its left side and curving up the left side and down over right shoulder is a rainbow-striped snake, painted to suggest sequins. From the shoulders extend stiff pleated grey and silver 'epaulettes'. The calf-length skirt is formed of various coloured stylized feathers, stretching from waist and curving round at the hem, finishing in a mass of black and silver frills. Beneath the dress are silver pantaloons, finishing at the ankle.
Dimensions
  • Height: 272mm
  • Width: 186mm
Marks and inscriptions
  • "Ballet. / "The Pretty Prentice"

    Note
    pen and ink top left hand corner

  • "Eccebtruc Dress / Mlel Genée"

    Note
    pen and ink top right hand corner

  • "C. Wilhelm. / 1916"

    Note
    pen and ink lower right hand side

  • No. 114

    Note
    reverse: pencil encircled in oval

  • "Moonstone"

    Note
    reverse: pencil top left hand corner

  • "759"

    Note
    reverse: pencil, encircled, upper centre

Gallery label
(March 2009-September 2013)
16
Costume design for The Pretty Prentice
1916

Wilhelm, one of the most inventive and prolific late
19th-century costume designers, was famed for his intricate
drawings and use of colour. Notice the snake
coiling around the bodice and see how the design
matches the final costume which is also on display.

Ballet by William John Charles Pitcher (credited as C. Wilhelm), 1916
London Coliseum

Paper and ink
Designed by William John Charles Pitcher working as Wilhelm
(1858–1925)
Given by the British Theatre Museum Association
Museum no. S.48-2008
Credit line
Given by the British Theatre Museum Association
Object history
The design was created by Wilhelm for dancer Adeline Genée as Patty in The Pretty Prentice, seen at the London Coliseum in 1916. It was one of the last productions on which they worked together. Genée gave the design to the British Theatre Museum Association in October 1967.

Summary
Wilhelm designed many productions for Adeline Genée, star dancer at the Empire Theatre music hall in the 1890s and early 1900s. Among his last work for her was the ballet The Pretty Prentice, the purpose of which was to show Genée as a mischievous shop girl in as many different moods as possible. This extraordinary creation which he entitled Eccentric Dress is the ultimate Edwardian dance dress, blending imagination and character. A fun dress for a fun character. The stylised feathers on the skirt, to be executed in coloured fabrics, silver and sequins, complement the ostrich feather headdress, while the sequinned bodice with its enveloping snake, contrasts with the silver and rhinestones and the stiff, pleated 'epaulettes' on the shoulders. The silver pantaloons add a delicious touch of naughtiness, so characteristic of the lost Edwardian period.

Wilhelm worked in the prevailing style of late 19th century realism, but with an imagination and flair and knowledge of his subject that made him outstanding. What makes this design extraordinary is the definition and precision of the drawing, and how Wilhem conveys in paint the final effect of the costume - whether a flower or sparkling sequin snake; he suggests the fabrics, the density of velvet, the sparkle of sequin, the soft floating of silk. It was his knowledge of the techniques of stage costume making, and how to use materials, that made Wilhelm supreme among stage designers.
Associated object
Other number
1967/A/55 - BTMA accession number
Collection
Accession number
S.48-2008

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Record createdMay 28, 2008
Record URL
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