Earring thumbnail 1
Earring thumbnail 2
+1
images
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

This object consists of 6 parts, some of which may be located elsewhere.

Earring

1991 (made)

The exacting repetition of weaving and braiding techniques results in a very disciplined and regular effect. Catherine Martin uses the classical Japanese textile art of braiding or kumihimo, transferring it from silk to precious metals. She uses in the main platinum and gold. Metal wire, unlike silk, tolerates no mistakes so the slightest kink in the wire meant she had to start the piece afresh. The earrings here are the first she made in this technique.

Catherine Martin is a jeweller, textile artist and classical musician. It has been said that music is ever-present in her work, when she intertwines the metal wires, the sound of Bach fugues are in the background. She transforms forms according to sound. Martin finds the technique of braiding very meditative.

The technique of kumihimo in jewellery is unique to Catherine Martin.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 6 parts.

  • Earring
  • Earring
  • Butterfly Clip
  • Butterfly Clip
  • Box
  • Lid
Brief description
Pair of braided platinum earrings by Catherine Martin, in their original box, London, 1991
Physical description
Long tapering earrings with a pattern of spiralling diagonal ridges, made of braided platinum wire. A post attachment and circular clip are attached to the back of each earring. The silk cords fastening the rectangular wooden box are dyed and braided by Catherine Martin.
Object history
Historical significance: These are the first earrings Catherine Martin made using this technique. They won the Platinum Award (student section) in 1991 and were part of the Ayrton Metals Collection until its dispersal in 1995.
Summary
The exacting repetition of weaving and braiding techniques results in a very disciplined and regular effect. Catherine Martin uses the classical Japanese textile art of braiding or kumihimo, transferring it from silk to precious metals. She uses in the main platinum and gold. Metal wire, unlike silk, tolerates no mistakes so the slightest kink in the wire meant she had to start the piece afresh. The earrings here are the first she made in this technique.

Catherine Martin is a jeweller, textile artist and classical musician. It has been said that music is ever-present in her work, when she intertwines the metal wires, the sound of Bach fugues are in the background. She transforms forms according to sound. Martin finds the technique of braiding very meditative.

The technique of kumihimo in jewellery is unique to Catherine Martin.
Bibliographic references
  • Amanda Game and Elizabeth Goring, Jewellery Moves, ornament for the 21st century, National Museums of Scotland, Edinburgh 1998
  • Yvonne Kulagowski, The Earring Book, London 2007
  • Catherine Martin, Kumihimo: Japanese Silk Braiding Techniques (Basic Marudai Braids)
Collection
Accession number
M.20:1-6-1995

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Record createdMay 7, 2008
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