Coat and Waistcoat
1795-1800 (made), 1870-1900 (altered)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
A man's court coat and waistcoat; the coat is made of purple silk velvet, cut and voided in alternating stripes of satin ground and figured velvet. It has a standing collar 2.5 inches (6.5 cm), fronts curving from neck to hem and curving, two-piece sleeves ending in cuffs, 4.5 inches (11.5 cm) deep. Each front has a pocket and pointed pocket flaps; the narrow pleats are on either side of the centre-back opening. The pocket flaps are lined with white silk satin, the pockets and sleeves with linen. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in white, blue and shades of pink and green, in a pattern of flowers and leaves, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets, and along the front edges, side and back pleats. There are 9 embroidered pockets on the right front edge, 3 below each pocket and 3 on each cuff. The coat fastens with a hook & eye on the fronts at chest level.
The waistcoat has a standing 2-inch (5 cm) collar, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. The fronts are made of white satin, the back of bleached linen. The fronts are lined with fustian, the front facings and skirt lining are made of ivory silk satin. embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in white, blue and and pale purple and shades of pink and green, in a pattern of flowers and leaves, on the collar and pocket flaps and along the front edges and hems. There are 8 worked buttonholes along the left front, and 11 embroidered buttons on the right.
The ensemble was altered in the late 19th century, probably for theatre costume. Linen ties were sewn at the waist inside the coat and at the back of the waistcoat. The back of the coat has been relined, cotton dress-shields sewn under the arms and the left back pleat has been removed and replaced with plain dark blue velvet.
The waistcoat has a standing 2-inch (5 cm) collar, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. The fronts are made of white satin, the back of bleached linen. The fronts are lined with fustian, the front facings and skirt lining are made of ivory silk satin. embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in white, blue and and pale purple and shades of pink and green, in a pattern of flowers and leaves, on the collar and pocket flaps and along the front edges and hems. There are 8 worked buttonholes along the left front, and 11 embroidered buttons on the right.
The ensemble was altered in the late 19th century, probably for theatre costume. Linen ties were sewn at the waist inside the coat and at the back of the waistcoat. The back of the coat has been relined, cotton dress-shields sewn under the arms and the left back pleat has been removed and replaced with plain dark blue velvet.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Parts | This object consists of 2 parts.
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| Materials and techniques | Silk, linen, cotton; hand weaving, velvet weave, satin weave hand-embroidered, hand-sewn |
| Brief description | Man's court coat and waistcoat, 1795-1800, English/French; purple velvet/white satin, embroidered, altered 1870-1900 |
| Physical description | A man's court coat and waistcoat; the coat is made of purple silk velvet, cut and voided in alternating stripes of satin ground and figured velvet. It has a standing collar 2.5 inches (6.5 cm), fronts curving from neck to hem and curving, two-piece sleeves ending in cuffs, 4.5 inches (11.5 cm) deep. Each front has a pocket and pointed pocket flaps; the narrow pleats are on either side of the centre-back opening. The pocket flaps are lined with white silk satin, the pockets and sleeves with linen. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in white, blue and shades of pink and green, in a pattern of flowers and leaves, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets, and along the front edges, side and back pleats. There are 9 embroidered pockets on the right front edge, 3 below each pocket and 3 on each cuff. The coat fastens with a hook & eye on the fronts at chest level. The waistcoat has a standing 2-inch (5 cm) collar, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. The fronts are made of white satin, the back of bleached linen. The fronts are lined with fustian, the front facings and skirt lining are made of ivory silk satin. embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in white, blue and and pale purple and shades of pink and green, in a pattern of flowers and leaves, on the collar and pocket flaps and along the front edges and hems. There are 8 worked buttonholes along the left front, and 11 embroidered buttons on the right. The ensemble was altered in the late 19th century, probably for theatre costume. Linen ties were sewn at the waist inside the coat and at the back of the waistcoat. The back of the coat has been relined, cotton dress-shields sewn under the arms and the left back pleat has been removed and replaced with plain dark blue velvet. |
| Dimensions |
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| Production type | Haute couture |
| Credit line | Given by Mrs George Shaw |
| Object history | This coat and waistcoat were donated by Mrs George Shaw. They were said to have been worn by the actor Tate Wilkinson (27 October 1739 – 16 November 1803) although this is unlikely. |
| Bibliographic references |
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| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.29&A-1910 |
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| Record created | April 29, 2008 |
| Record URL |
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