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Pair of Waistcoat Shapes thumbnail 2
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Pair of Waistcoat Shapes

1770s (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Fashionable embroideries of the late 18th century were usually worked to create a very smooth, flat appearance, alleviated in this instance by the use of applied net and by small amounts of chenille thread (in the W-shapes which form part of the ground pattern). French embroidered waistcoats were very popular in England and the Exchequer Records in the Public Records Office refer to many instances of French waistcoat shapes being smuggled across the Channel to avoid paying duty. Embroiderers in Britain also worked waistcoat shapes in similar designs.

Waistcoats were often embroidered to shape, to be purchased and then sewn together by a tailor; the areas of undecorated silk allowed the waistcoat to be cut and fitted to whatever size was required. In this pair of shapes, the pocket flap was embroidered in the upper right hand corner and was then cut out, hemmed and stitched into place.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Waistcoat Shape
  • Waistcoat Shape
Materials and techniques
Silk; hand-woven satin, hand-embroidered, netted
Brief description
Pair of waistcoat shapes of embroidered satin for a man's waistcoat, 1770s, Lyons, French; ivory silk, coloured silks, applied net
Physical description
Pair of waistcoat shapes for a man’s waistcoat of ivory silk satin embroidered with silk floss in shades of green, pink, purple and yellow, with satin stitch, in a floral design. There is a repeating leaf motif of applied net embroidered with white silk chenille thread. Each shape has a curving neckline, shaped pockets and flaps, and short skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. The pocket flaps have been cut out and stitched in place. On the right shape, 13 circular button covers have been worked and there are 13 rectangles along the left front edge for buttonholes.
Dimensions
  • T.26 1961 length: 79.5cm (approx)
  • Each width: 51cm (maximum)
  • Each length: 31.75in
  • Each width: 19.75in
  • T.26 1961, selvedge to selvedge width: 50.4cm (approx)
  • T.26 a 1961 length: 80.0cm (approx)
  • T.26 a 1961 width: 50.5cm (approx)
Credit line
Given by Dr Margery Simmons
Subject depicted
Summary
Fashionable embroideries of the late 18th century were usually worked to create a very smooth, flat appearance, alleviated in this instance by the use of applied net and by small amounts of chenille thread (in the W-shapes which form part of the ground pattern). French embroidered waistcoats were very popular in England and the Exchequer Records in the Public Records Office refer to many instances of French waistcoat shapes being smuggled across the Channel to avoid paying duty. Embroiderers in Britain also worked waistcoat shapes in similar designs.

Waistcoats were often embroidered to shape, to be purchased and then sewn together by a tailor; the areas of undecorated silk allowed the waistcoat to be cut and fitted to whatever size was required. In this pair of shapes, the pocket flap was embroidered in the upper right hand corner and was then cut out, hemmed and stitched into place.
Collection
Accession number
T.26&A-1961

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Record createdDecember 15, 1999
Record URL
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