Jacket
1830-1870 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Short-sleeved jacket, voided silk and cotton cut velvet with metal thread ground trimmed with tablet woven silk and metal thread braid, lined with four types of roller printed plain weave cotton and faced with plain weave cotton.
Front opening jacket with a slight overlap at the bottom; pronounced flare over the hips and a diamond-shaped opening under the arms. Seamed at the shoulders with the sleeves set at right angles to the bodice. Green velvet with a diamond shaped lattice formed by serrated leaves. Each diamond contains a flower head. The ground is yellow and contains a metal strip, visible from a distance but difficult to see under a magnifying glass. It may be silver-gilt and it floats across the face of the fabric.
Warp: green silk and yellow silk
Weft: yellow cotton and white silk with the metal strip.
Tablet woven braid attached along the cuffs, front opening, hem and up the side slits over the hip, continuing back and front along the curve of the hip to form a short horizontal band. A small section is also added at the lower front to form a triangle on each side of the opening. Black silk with patterns formed in silver wound around a white silk core and also round a yellow silk core. On the inner edge is a narrow band of cream silk around which silver strip has been open wound and through the middle of which a single strip of pink metal plate has been passed.
Linings: [1] inside the left sleeve: [a] brown ground cotton with small white ovals, each containing a red line. [b] white ground cotton with small spiky mushroom-like motifs in dark brown outlined in red.
[2] inside the right sleeve: [a] as [a] in left sleeve. [b] white ground cotton with small dark brown stars with white centre, outlined in red [this fabric is also found as a small strip across the back of the neck].
[3] small strip in the side seams: white ground cotton with a small angular floral motif with block-like outline in dark brown and red and white centre.
[4] main lining: white ground cotton with closely packed fine sprigs with pink flowers, beige leaves, purple berries and occasional green leaves.
Facing: green cotton around the opening under the arm.
There are vertical lines of black tacking/basting stitches.
Front opening jacket with a slight overlap at the bottom; pronounced flare over the hips and a diamond-shaped opening under the arms. Seamed at the shoulders with the sleeves set at right angles to the bodice. Green velvet with a diamond shaped lattice formed by serrated leaves. Each diamond contains a flower head. The ground is yellow and contains a metal strip, visible from a distance but difficult to see under a magnifying glass. It may be silver-gilt and it floats across the face of the fabric.
Warp: green silk and yellow silk
Weft: yellow cotton and white silk with the metal strip.
Tablet woven braid attached along the cuffs, front opening, hem and up the side slits over the hip, continuing back and front along the curve of the hip to form a short horizontal band. A small section is also added at the lower front to form a triangle on each side of the opening. Black silk with patterns formed in silver wound around a white silk core and also round a yellow silk core. On the inner edge is a narrow band of cream silk around which silver strip has been open wound and through the middle of which a single strip of pink metal plate has been passed.
Linings: [1] inside the left sleeve: [a] brown ground cotton with small white ovals, each containing a red line. [b] white ground cotton with small spiky mushroom-like motifs in dark brown outlined in red.
[2] inside the right sleeve: [a] as [a] in left sleeve. [b] white ground cotton with small dark brown stars with white centre, outlined in red [this fabric is also found as a small strip across the back of the neck].
[3] small strip in the side seams: white ground cotton with a small angular floral motif with block-like outline in dark brown and red and white centre.
[4] main lining: white ground cotton with closely packed fine sprigs with pink flowers, beige leaves, purple berries and occasional green leaves.
Facing: green cotton around the opening under the arm.
There are vertical lines of black tacking/basting stitches.
Object details
| Category | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | silk thread, cotton yarn, metal thread, weaving, roller-printing, sewing. |
| Brief description | A jacket, velvet with silk and metal threads, Iran, 19th century |
| Physical description | Short-sleeved jacket, voided silk and cotton cut velvet with metal thread ground trimmed with tablet woven silk and metal thread braid, lined with four types of roller printed plain weave cotton and faced with plain weave cotton. Front opening jacket with a slight overlap at the bottom; pronounced flare over the hips and a diamond-shaped opening under the arms. Seamed at the shoulders with the sleeves set at right angles to the bodice. Green velvet with a diamond shaped lattice formed by serrated leaves. Each diamond contains a flower head. The ground is yellow and contains a metal strip, visible from a distance but difficult to see under a magnifying glass. It may be silver-gilt and it floats across the face of the fabric. Warp: green silk and yellow silk Weft: yellow cotton and white silk with the metal strip. Tablet woven braid attached along the cuffs, front opening, hem and up the side slits over the hip, continuing back and front along the curve of the hip to form a short horizontal band. A small section is also added at the lower front to form a triangle on each side of the opening. Black silk with patterns formed in silver wound around a white silk core and also round a yellow silk core. On the inner edge is a narrow band of cream silk around which silver strip has been open wound and through the middle of which a single strip of pink metal plate has been passed. Linings: [1] inside the left sleeve: [a] brown ground cotton with small white ovals, each containing a red line. [b] white ground cotton with small spiky mushroom-like motifs in dark brown outlined in red. [2] inside the right sleeve: [a] as [a] in left sleeve. [b] white ground cotton with small dark brown stars with white centre, outlined in red [this fabric is also found as a small strip across the back of the neck]. [3] small strip in the side seams: white ground cotton with a small angular floral motif with block-like outline in dark brown and red and white centre. [4] main lining: white ground cotton with closely packed fine sprigs with pink flowers, beige leaves, purple berries and occasional green leaves. Facing: green cotton around the opening under the arm. There are vertical lines of black tacking/basting stitches. |
| Dimensions |
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| Production | The velvet is European, possibly Turkish; the roller-printed cotton is probably British |
| Bibliographic reference | Illustrated in 'Iranian Textiles' by Jennifer Wearden and Patricia L Baker, V&A Publishing 2010, plate 20 page 102 (whole) and page 103 (detail of velvet). |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | CIRC.740-1924 |
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| Record created | April 23, 2008 |
| Record URL |
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