Jacket thumbnail 1
Jacket thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Jacket

1838 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Jacket, woven silk and metal thread, twill binding, faced with a patterned woollen twill and plain weave cotton and patterned woven silk, and lined with roller printed plain weave cotton.
Multi-pieced jacket of at least two very similar but not identical silk fabrics, with curved V-shaped, non- fastening opening. Sleeves with fabric folded over, set at right angles to the main back panels. Open underarms and from elbow to narrow pointed cuff, with magenta pink cord at front on top of pink [faded] thread buttons and loops. Definite hipped outline with seamed facings.
Main silk: woven silk satin with red ground with [a] a densely packed, generous flowering and leafy meander in metal thread. The stems which carry occasional blue twill rosettes, buds and palmettes. The sleeves and inserts are in a similar fabric [b] and include a lobed cartouche containing a lengthy inscription including a date on both upper arm sections.
Fabric [a]: Warp: red silk, Z-twist; Weft: foundation: pink and blue silk with silver strip open S-wound on white silk core.
Fabric [b]: Warp: red silk, Z-twist; Weft: foundation: pink and blue silk with silver strip open S-wound on yellow silk core.
Facing: [1] front and hem and hipped outline - bias-cut dark blue woollen twill with offset botehs, facing left in one row and right in the next. Botehs in the form of an open flowering spray in yellow, green, pink with details in light blue and white; Z-spun wool.
[2] Plain weave blue cotton on both pointed cuffs.
[3] woven silk [plain weave with sections in satin] with linked geometric blocks. Light blue warp and magenta weft.
Lining: roller printed plain weave cotton; dark blue ground with a series of delicate blue stemmed meanders bearing green leaves and red and blue flower heads with off-white details.


Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
silk thread, woollen yarn, cotton yarn, metal thread, weaving, roller printing, sewing.
Brief description
Middle East, Textile; woven silk, 1838, Persian
Physical description
Jacket, woven silk and metal thread, twill binding, faced with a patterned woollen twill and plain weave cotton and patterned woven silk, and lined with roller printed plain weave cotton.
Multi-pieced jacket of at least two very similar but not identical silk fabrics, with curved V-shaped, non- fastening opening. Sleeves with fabric folded over, set at right angles to the main back panels. Open underarms and from elbow to narrow pointed cuff, with magenta pink cord at front on top of pink [faded] thread buttons and loops. Definite hipped outline with seamed facings.
Main silk: woven silk satin with red ground with [a] a densely packed, generous flowering and leafy meander in metal thread. The stems which carry occasional blue twill rosettes, buds and palmettes. The sleeves and inserts are in a similar fabric [b] and include a lobed cartouche containing a lengthy inscription including a date on both upper arm sections.
Fabric [a]: Warp: red silk, Z-twist; Weft: foundation: pink and blue silk with silver strip open S-wound on white silk core.
Fabric [b]: Warp: red silk, Z-twist; Weft: foundation: pink and blue silk with silver strip open S-wound on yellow silk core.
Facing: [1] front and hem and hipped outline - bias-cut dark blue woollen twill with offset botehs, facing left in one row and right in the next. Botehs in the form of an open flowering spray in yellow, green, pink with details in light blue and white; Z-spun wool.
[2] Plain weave blue cotton on both pointed cuffs.
[3] woven silk [plain weave with sections in satin] with linked geometric blocks. Light blue warp and magenta weft.
Lining: roller printed plain weave cotton; dark blue ground with a series of delicate blue stemmed meanders bearing green leaves and red and blue flower heads with off-white details.
Dimensions
  • Length: 49cm
  • Width: 153cm
  • Across shoulders and sleeves width: 153cm
  • Hem circumference: 79cm
Marks and inscriptions
Qur'an LXI, part of 13. 1254 [27th March 1838 - 16th March 1839) Muhammad Hussain (woven in silk: lobed cartouche with inscription and a date.)
Production
Inscriptions in fabric design include the Islamic date 1254 (AD 1838)
Collection
Accession number
T.23-1914

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Record createdApril 22, 2008
Record URL
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