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Not currently on display at the V&A

Textile Panel

1700-1750 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Plain weave cotton embroidered with silk in surface darning on the diagonal and running stitch, backed with plain weave silk and faced with bias-cut plain weave silk and plain weave cotton and silk. The surface darning is worked to create a herringbone twill effect. The border has been cut and re-stitched and may have come from another embroidery; there are also three small patches [on the opposite corner to the Museum Number] from other embroideries. The cover has a longitudinal axis pattern of an elaborate cross form in blue, leading into a fleur de lys form in faded red, either side of a central darker blue cartouche. This pattern is repeated laterally by the upper and lower border. The rest of the field is infilled with two [three-quarters complete] notched and broken octagonal forms outlined in light blue enclosing S-shaped leaves and a larger version of the elaborate cross form. All motifs are infilled with stylised floral elements. The border is blue with an incomplete pattern composition based on a thin black stem carrying buds, flower heads and leaves in the same colouring. The patches are in surface darning on the diagonal, but with no change of direction.
Embroidery threads: 2S silk; black, white, two shades of blue, yellow, very faded red [now beige], beige and light green.
The backing is purple silk and the facing is pink silk and beige cotton and silk.
Materials and Techniques: cotton yarn, silk thread, weaving, embroidering, sewing.


Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
cotton yarn, silk thread, weaving, embroidering, sewing.
Brief description
Middle East, Textile; Panel, silk-embroidered cotton, packed design of lobed cartouches and crosses on cream ground, Azerbaijan or NW Iran, 1700-1750
Physical description
Plain weave cotton embroidered with silk in surface darning on the diagonal and running stitch, backed with plain weave silk and faced with bias-cut plain weave silk and plain weave cotton and silk. The surface darning is worked to create a herringbone twill effect. The border has been cut and re-stitched and may have come from another embroidery; there are also three small patches [on the opposite corner to the Museum Number] from other embroideries. The cover has a longitudinal axis pattern of an elaborate cross form in blue, leading into a fleur de lys form in faded red, either side of a central darker blue cartouche. This pattern is repeated laterally by the upper and lower border. The rest of the field is infilled with two [three-quarters complete] notched and broken octagonal forms outlined in light blue enclosing S-shaped leaves and a larger version of the elaborate cross form. All motifs are infilled with stylised floral elements. The border is blue with an incomplete pattern composition based on a thin black stem carrying buds, flower heads and leaves in the same colouring. The patches are in surface darning on the diagonal, but with no change of direction.
Embroidery threads: 2S silk; black, white, two shades of blue, yellow, very faded red [now beige], beige and light green.
The backing is purple silk and the facing is pink silk and beige cotton and silk.
Materials and Techniques: cotton yarn, silk thread, weaving, embroidering, sewing.
Dimensions
  • Length: 69cm
  • Width: 63cm
Style
Marks and inscriptions
(Label: on the back, paper label with a pencilled 'K'.)
Bibliographic reference
This embroidery belongs to Group 3 as defined by Jennifer Wearden in 'Azerbaijanian Embroideries: A Synthesis of Contrasts' in Hali Issue 59, October 1991 pp. 102-111. Group 3 textiles are characterised by surface darning on the diagonal.
Collection
Accession number
T.188-1911

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Record createdApril 22, 2008
Record URL
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