Ensemble comprising of printed tunic and shorts, goggles, two rings and cuff, designed by Shirley Beljon, London, 1968.

Matching ensemble of sleeveless tunic and high-waisted shorts in printed navy, mustard yellow, brown and cream canvas. The tunic features a moulded 'Napoleon' collar and is also moulded at the waist with a cutaway pelpum that flares over the hips. It is fastened by a metal zip at the back of the tunic. The shorts are fastened with a metal zip at and hook and eye fastening at the back. Completing the emsemble is a wide silver-toned metal arm cuff, two rings in mustard-coloured resin and a pair of prototype childrens' 'goggles' with round convex lenses attached to clear plastic tubing that wraps around the ears.

Given by Mrs Shirley Beljon

Shirley Beljon is a photographer, model and fashion designer. Born in South Africa, Beljon started her career as a model for South African photographer Sam Haskins (1928-2009) and gained international recognition as the fictional heroine ‘Kate’ in Haskins’ photobook Cowboy Kate & Other Stories (1964). In 1965 Beljon moved to London to study design at the London College of Fashion, and later at the Royal College of Art.

In the 1970s Beljon worked as a (self-taught) photographer, photographing the work of British fashion designers such as Jean Muir and Celia Birtwell for magazines such as Cosmopolitan, British Vogue and the Sunday Times. In the late 1970s Beljon worked as a documentary photographer, contributing images to the feminist women’s magazine Spare Rib and literary periodical The London Magazine.

In 1980 Beljon was appointed Director of Photography for the touring exhibition Jean Muir and photographed prominent British women such as artist Bridget Riley and actress Joanna Lumley wearing Muir’s designs. Several of her portraits, including one of Muir, are held in the permanent collection of the National Portrait Gallery. A lithograph of this portrait is also held by the V&A (E.608-1980).

This is one of four womenswear ensembles designed by Mrs Shirley Beljon in 1968 as part of her Royal College of Art graduate collection. The collection was featured in Depeche Mode magazine shortly after being released and was described as ‘the most original of the London collections.’ Beljon has provided notes for each ensemble, outlining the design inspiration behind each look, in particular the inspiration she found in Japanese fashion and culture.

This canvas tunic and shorts ensemble was inspired by designs for armour in the V&A collection. Armour is cited by Beljon as one of the major influences in her womenswear designs. The Pierre Cardin boots were purchased to be worn with it; Paris ready-to-wear being increasingly available in London in the 1960s. The goggles are a unique prototype by Polaroid, created using factory blank lenses that were cut into the desired shape and made into sunglasses using plastic tubing.

T.51:1-2021