Brooch-Pendant thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
Not currently on display at the V&A
On short term loan out for exhibition

Brooch-Pendant

1885-95 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The brooch is in the form of a spirited singing bird in turquoise, coral and pearl with a ruby eye in a heart-shaped olive tree with enamelled leaves. It follows a design made by Burne-Jones for his daughter, Margaret, in about 1884. Related sketches are in the British Museum and the V&A. His wife, Georgie, remembered him working him on the design and seeing it through to execution. In addition to Margaret’s brooch, which was shown at the exhibition of her father’s work at the New Gallery in 1892, it is known that another early example was given to Laura Tennant, who married Arthur Lyttelton in 1885 and died in 1886.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Enamelled gold set with turquoise, coral, pearls and a ruby
Brief description
Brooch-pendant in the form of a bird, enamelled gold set with turquoise, coral, pearls and ruby. Designed by Sir Edward Burne-Jones and made by Carlo Giuliano, London 1885-95.
Physical description
Gold brooch-pendant in the form of a bird in profile on an olive branch. The bird has a cabochon ruby eye, and is set with cabochon coral and turquoise, and with pearls. The tree is heart-shaped and has translucent green enamel leaves and translucent red enamel berries (some enamel loss). Plain gold back with brooch pin and hinged pendant fitting.
Dimensions
  • Height: 4.2cm
  • Width: 4.3cm
  • Depth: 1.4cm
Style
Marks and inscriptions
C.G in an oval, a struck cameo mark (Struck on the back of the brooch on the metal leaf which projects at right angles from the back and holds the knuckles for the brooch pin. Mark of Carlo Giuliano, apparently in use from 1863, when registered at Goldsmiths' Hall, to 1895. His sons, Carlo Joseph Giuliano and Arthur Alphonse Giuliano, registered a new mark on 5 March 1896.)
Credit line
Given by Geoffrey and Caroline Munn through Art Fund
Object history
The brooch follows a design made by Burne-Jones for his daughter, Margaret, in about 1884. Related sketches are in the British Museum and the V&A (the latter illustrated by Charlotte Gere and Geoffrey Munn, Artists' Jewellery: Pre-Raphaelite to Arts and Crafts, Woodbridge, 1989, p. 134). His wife, Georgie, remembered him working him on the design and seeing it through to execution. In addition to Margaret’s brooch, which was shown at the exhibition of her father’s work at the New Gallery in 1892, it is known that another early example was given to Laura Tennant, who married Arthur Lyttelton in 1885 and died in 1886.

There appear to be at least four surviving examples of the brooch. Three bear the mark of Carlo Giuliano who died in 1895. One of these three was formerly in the possession of Margaret’s daughter, Claire Mackail. Another belonged to the art journalist and critic Harry Quilter (1851-1907; Sotheby's, London, 21 June 1990, lot 55). Geoffrey and Caroline Munn’s brooch is the third. It was published by Charlotte Gere and Geoffrey Munn in Artists’ Jewels: Pre-Raphaelite to Arts and Crafts (Woodbridge, 1989, p. 137). It was lent to Edward Burne-Jones, Victorian Artist-Dreamer, shown in 1998-9 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery, and the Musée d’Orsay. A fourth brooch cannot be earlier than 1896 because it bears the mark of Carlo Giuliano’s sons, Carlo and Arthur Giuliano (exhibited in Artists' Jewelry: Pre-Raphaelite to Arts and Crafts, Wartski, London, March 1989, no. 121; Judith H. Siegel Collection, Sotheby's, New York, 6 December 2006, lot 126).

Charlotte Gere and Geoffrey Munn (op. cit., p. 134) illustrate heart-shaped wash studies of late medieval mosaics of stylised olive trees and flowers made for plate 4 of John Ruskin's Stones of Venice (vol. III, 1853) with the comment: 'these medieval mosaics may well have been the source of inspiration for the bird brooches which Sir Edward Burne-Jones asked Giuliano to make for him. Whether or not the artist remembered them from his visit to Venice in 1862 will never be known but the fact that Burne-Jones owned a copy of The Stones of Venice can hardly be doubted'.
Subject depicted
Summary
The brooch is in the form of a spirited singing bird in turquoise, coral and pearl with a ruby eye in a heart-shaped olive tree with enamelled leaves. It follows a design made by Burne-Jones for his daughter, Margaret, in about 1884. Related sketches are in the British Museum and the V&A. His wife, Georgie, remembered him working him on the design and seeing it through to execution. In addition to Margaret’s brooch, which was shown at the exhibition of her father’s work at the New Gallery in 1892, it is known that another early example was given to Laura Tennant, who married Arthur Lyttelton in 1885 and died in 1886.
Bibliographic references
  • Art Fund 2015-16, illustrated p. 43
  • Smith, Alison, ed. Edward Burne-Jones. Catalogue of the exhibition held at Tate Britain, Londo, 24 October 2018 - 24 February 2019. London: Tate Enterprises Ltd, 2018. ISBN 978 1 84976 599 2.
Collection
Accession number
M.11-2015

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Record createdApril 16, 2008
Record URL
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